YSL's Low-Key Glamour for Men, Winter Chic at Hermes

PARIS (Agence France-Presse)—From the smoldering greys of Yves Saint Laurent's understated glamour, to splashes of sleek red at Hermes, and Paul Smith's funky patterns to rival his stripes, men's winter fashion ran the gamut of styles on the Paris catwalk on Jan. 29.

As well as richly varied shapes and colors, the third day of men's autumn/winter collections for 2006-07 brought a diverse selection of luxurious materials.

At Hermes, Veronique Nichanian used a plush array, including cashmere flannel, crocodile and lambskin, for a chic men's wardrobe cast mostly in shades of grey punctuated by bright red.

A red crocodile blouson to offset a low-key V-neck sweater in grey cashmere is a sure way to burn off those threatening winter clouds, while red also ran up the side of straight-cut velvet pants.

Stefano Pilati turned out generously cut coats at Yves Saint Laurent in refined grey pearl with big pockets, or charcoal grey lined with fur, belted and with discreet grey checks.

Jackets had the same supple and elegant allure, also in greys, with checks and stripes, or various nuances of cream, with a silk scarf fluttering from a pocket or big woolly scarves tucked underneath.

They were teamed with soft flannels or tweed pants. A timeless black tuxedo completed the winter wardrobe of understated glamour crafted by the Italian designer for the venerable French fashion house.

A weekend in the country? Not a problem at Britain's Paul Smith, who took the classics of English gentleman elegance and added a heavy twist of eccentric chic through color, pattern and stripes.

The English gent's 'tweed' jacket had blue stripes and big green checks, and a tapestry blazer was in keeping with the stately wood-paneled room that provided the setting for the show at the Fine Arts School, complete with leather arm chairs, gilt-bound books and a decanter of whiskey.

Smith's impeccably tailored suits are sure to cut a dash in the boardroom, while white embroidery on the front of silk-backed waistcoats added whimsy, and an array of shirts were flowered, pin-dotted or cowboy.

Belgium's Ann Demeulemeester, one of the famed "Antwerp Six" from the northern Belgian city, spiced up her preferred black-and white-winter wardrobe with silver lame and delicate reptile prints.

For the man unafraid of making a bold fashion statement, she offered straight-cut, silver lamé pants or blazer, while a python-print jacket was worn over a black, white-hemmed shirt. Reptile-print trousers added an edgy dash of rock'n'roll.

Like many of the catwalk shows so far during Paris men's fashion week, Demeulemeester was brimming with ideas for headgear too, sending out models in black bowler hats, berets or wrapping them in hooded pullovers.

A big black downy coat went down particularly well with the fashion crowd, as did U.S. rock legend, Patti Smith, who was applauded as she took to the runway at the end of the show clasping a clarinet.

Another of Belgium's "Antwerp Six," Walter van Beirendonck, features on today's line-up of autumn/winter 2006-07 shows, which also includes Lanvin, Emanuel Ungaro, Francesco Smalto and Jean Paul Gaultier.