Calvin Klein, Zac Posen Debut New Lines in NYC
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NEW YORK, Feb. 10, 2006—New York Fashion Week is coming to a close with rapid-fire runway shows from some of the biggest names in the industryDonna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Karl Lagerfeld.
They'll have some tough high heels to fill today, though, as Zac Posen and Calvin Klein debuted some stunning attention-grabbing looks Thursday night. Posen has something to be proud of. While his clothes are not always the most wearable, he pushes the envelope, and that's what moves fashion forward. For example, there probably is not room in most closets for the white satin gown with a pouffy bottom covered in feathers and topped with an ivory metallic chenille coat he sent down the runway, but it made one heck of a finale dress. Outfits one could imagine on the backs of Posen's trendsetting customers included a navy python pant and navy peacoat, a navy cotton blouse with sheer wide-leg pants in tartan plaid, and a cozy, long black angora vest with skinny black jeans. An ivory metallic jumper and a cropped embossed leather blouse with dressy wide-leg trousers were edgy, but not too much so. If only a celebrity would be bold enough to step out of that classic Hollywood glamour look and take this risk on the red carpet, she'd be rewarded for reinvigorating what's become a tired parade of satin, glamourpuss gowns. Actually, there were more details, however subtle they might have been, on this runway than on most others. Pleats on dresses revealed sheer insets as models took their steps and a wool jacket, also featuring a chevron pattern, had subtle metallic threads to give just a bit of sparkle. Daytime looks, including tailored herringbone trousers and a cream-and-black sweater with braiding around the neck, also were lovely but took a back seat to the dressier styles. Mendel is a furrier at heart, so instead of the leather that many designers use to invoke toughness, he used sheared fur, which was sleek and contemporary. A gray broadtail blazer was definitely part of an outfit, not an outerwear afterthought. On the runway Thursday, it was worn with a lace blouse and velvet pants. A black satin cocktail dress had a sexy lace inset on the chest and a mink hemline. Mendel excelled at dresses, perfect for the socialite who wears his clothes, including sheer, soft, hand-pleated dresses and silk floral gowns. But the best and most inventive piece was a white knitted mink cardigan, belted at the waist; the ultimate example of dressed-up casual. The black Olivia de Havilland dress and a jacket with sequins around the collar would be a welcome addition to the red carpet anytime, as would the ocean-blue Ava Gardner gown, with its gathered bust and V straps. A leather jacket named for Vivien Leigh had quilting on the cuffs and around the waist and was very chic. There were a handful of casual styles, too. A wine-and-black cashmere tunic would look great with skinny jeans, though the model wore it as a minidress.
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