Monastrell from Spain

NEW YORK—Spain and Italy might be the most exciting wine countries these days, if only because their “teams” seem to have endlessly deep benches. I’m not usually big on sports metaphors, but this one really fits: In both countries, good wines are pouring out of regions you couldn’t locate on a map, made by producers who are equally obscure (for now). Usually these newly discovered areas are a gold mine for bargain hunters, too.

Few of you have probably given much thought to a red grape called Monastrell—and I bet most of you haven’t even seen it in print before. (It’s known as Mourvèdre in France and elsewhere and is a component of some Rhône wines.) But Spain is sending us more and more of these wines from the southeastern part of the country, and some of them are perfect recommendations for that cheapskate friend of yours who won’t spend more than $15 on a bottle of vino.

I tasted seven mostly-Monastrell wines recently; all of them were blends in various amounts with other, much more familiar, grapes. Although Monastrell is known for being dark purple in color and hearty on the palate, I was struck by the medium-bodied character of the wines (some nice tannins to coat your teeth, but nothing overwhelming).

From Jumilla, a region that’s been on my radar for a while, comes Finca Omblancas Delain 2004 ($13), a Monastrell-Syrah-Cabernet blend. The Cab softens any rough edges, as does a short oak aging. This wine has a blast of fresh cherries and a nice vein of acidity; it would cut the fat and salt of a veal ragu nicely.

Slightly weightier on the palate is the Valle de Salinas Joven 2005 ($9), which blends Monastrell with Merlot and Syrah. I was charmed by the pomegranate flavors in this wine, and since it wasn’t aged in oak at all, it comes across as unadorned and straightforward—the very kind of wine we need more of. Best of all it’s from Yecla, one of those regions even wine writers aren’t too familiar with.

Fans of Rioja who are reluctant to leave that comfort zone should take a risk on Casa de la Ermita Crianza 2003 ($16), another Jumilla wine. The producer blends Monastrell with Tempranillo, the classic Rioja grape, and gives it the oak aging Rioja drinkers crave—it has that noticeably pleasant edge of vanilla. The flavors of red fruits, spice, and sugar cookies shine through, and this wine has a bit longer finish than the first two I mentioned. All three of these bottles strongly hint at just what a deep reserve Spain has these days—Italy, the ball’s in your court now.

Ted Loos, Executive Editor of Art & Auction magazine, is the former features editor of Wine Spectator and has written on wine for Bon Appétit, Town & Country, and many other publications. He's the author of Town & Country Wine Companion: A Tasting Guide and Journal (Hearst Books; $12.95), to be published this fall.