Where: Miami Beach Convention Center.
What: The contemporary art world’s foremost American gathering.
When: December 6–9.
Highlights:
• The Pulse Contemporary Art Fair teams up with Takashi Murakami for the U.S. debut of Geisai, the Japanese master’s emerging-artist fair.
• A December 7 tour of local studios takes in Design District artists Tao Rey, Christina Lei Rodriguez, and Frances Twombly, then more artists, further afield, the following day.
• The Museum of Contemporary Art North Miami is showing “Jorge Pardo: House.” It includes 60 works by the genre-bending Los Angeles artist, arranged in kitchen, bedroom, and dining vignettes.
• The Fairchild Tropical Garden in Coral Gables is installing a Lichtenstein show not far from that artist’s Mermaid sculpture, which permanently sits near the Miami Beach Convention Center.
• The arty French nightlife team behind Le Baron will DJ a party at Emmanuel Perrotin’s gallery (galerieperrotin. com). They’ll also work an event on the upper level of Set nightclub (320 Lincoln Rd., setmiami.com).
artbaselmiamibeach.com

Stay:

The Delano
This iconic Aztec-headdress-topped hotel, designed by Robert Swartzburg in 1947, has recently snatched back its share of the jet-set crowd, thanks in part to a room refit that retained its white-on-white aesthetic but upgraded the dated amenities with new mattresses and plasma televisions. (Dita von Teese’s much-gossiped-about striptease here during last year’s fair didn’t hurt either.) A rooftop Agua spa just opened, plus a speakeasy-inspired lounge designed by onetime Miami mainstay Lenny Kravitz.
1685 Collins Ave.
305/672-2000
RATES: $315–$2,100
morganshotelgroup.com

Gansevoort South
The soft opening of the Manhattan hotel’s Florida outpost in the former Roney Palace building opens some rooms, the restaurant (by Philippe Chow), and the pool area to a few art-world VIPs. Like the original, this hotel has a showy rooftop pool—with cocoa palms and cabanas. A second elevated oceanfront “pool plaza” has a Jacuzzi, bar, and café. The charcoal gray–walled rooms are a nod to Miami’s heyday, with ’40s pinup photos and large balconies.
2377 Collins Ave.
305/604-1000
RATES: $795–$1,080
gansevoortsouth.com

The Raleigh
André Balazs’s louche, luxe hotel has established itself as an artworld mainstay—last year everyone from Visionaire to Lehmann Maupin and Jeffrey Deitch picked it for their parties. No one stays at the Raleigh for the rooms, though they’re comfortable and chic in a style you might call “Chateau Marmont goes to 1950s Cuba.” Rather, it’s the common areas, from the lovingly restored wood-paneled cocktail bar at the entrance to the curvaceous Esther Williams–era pool out back that lure crowds.
1775 Collins Ave.
305/534-6300
RATES: $325–$765
raleighhotel.com

Ritz-Carlton South Beach
Serious collectors (and Martha Stewart) hole up at this Morris Lapidus–designed hotel, formerly the DiLido Beach Club. The lobby and bar have a midcentury go-go glamour, while the overstuffed chairs and classic furnishings in the enormous rooms are reliably Ritz-Carlton. The hotel is co-owned by the Lowenstein family of local gallery fame. Their collection—including Miro and Dario Basso—is scattered throughout the common areas.
1 Lincoln Rd.
RATES: $250–$720
786/276-4000
ritzcarlton.com

Sagamore Hotel
The 93 suites in this art-crammed space were recently refreshed, renovating the kitchenettes and adding de rigueur luxuries such as plasma TVs. A video garden by the pool, with cocktail-ready lounging sofas and screens showcasing highlights from the owner’s extensive art collection, is another new addition. Last year there was a performance of Yoko Ono’s Onochord. This year the hotel will host a show of specially commissioned Spencer Tunick nudes, all of which were staged and snapped in Miami a couple of months ago.
1671 Collins Ave.
305/535-8088
RATES: $265–$785
sagamorehotel.com

The Tides
A thorough, floor-by-floor renovation by designer Kelly Wearstler has updated Lawrence Murray Dixon’s original 1936 Art Deco hotel just in time for the art fair. There are 45 suites, and those on the upper floors offer stunning views of the ocean. Don’t miss chef Pietro Rota’s Mediterranean cuisine at one of the terrace tables—sure to become a preferred Ocean Drive spot.
1220 Ocean Dr.
305/604-5070
RATES: $495–$695
tidessouthbeach.com

Eat:

Bin #18
Breakout chef Alfredo Patiño and his brothers run this tapas spot a few blocks north of the Performing Arts Center—great for lunch after hitting Wynwood. Raw concrete floors are offset by vintage wine barrels and an art gallery. Try blue cheese fig brûlée.
1800 Biscayne Blvd.
786/235-7575

Casa Tua
Secreted behind hedges in a Mediterranean-revival mansion, Miky and Leticia Grendene’s bolt-hole is more exclusive than ever now that the upstairs has become a members-only lounge, serving drinks and a full menu. Civilians can sample the delicious burrata-mozzarella ravioli in the first-floor Venetian restaurant.
1700 James Ave.
305/673-1010

David Bouley Evolution
Bouley and designer Jacques Garcia teamed up for this high-end restaurant in an annex of the Ritz-Carlton. The fantastical interior, heavy on the gold and drapes, is lush, and the food is dreamy. The consensus is that Bouley still deserves his elevated reputation. The $90 tasting menu is a classic of the genre, and the elegant truffled mushroom salad is an unmissable treat.
1669 Collins Ave.
305/604-6090

DeVito South Beach
Actor Danny’s new place, co-owned by seasoned local restaurateur David Manero, is part chophouse, part rustic Tuscan spot—with chandeliers. It takes style cues from Dorothy Draper and lures high rollers with a $250 “steak flight” (a trio of Wagyus) and a VIP balcony that’s reachable only by private elevator.
150 Ocean Dr.
305/531-0911

Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
Afterglo’s Michael Schwartz opened his casual Design District place earlier this year, and it has been packed with black-clad gallery workers and glitzy beach scenesters ever since. The indoor-outdoor space has an industrial aesthetic, while the menu is eclectic modern American (wood-roasted local black grouper). It’s best to eat solo at the bar or snag a coveted table on the plaza under an umbrella.

See:

Casa Decor
This Argentine interiors fair installs apartments, lofts, studios, and gardens in a 30,000-square-foot space near the Performing Arts Center. Architects and designers who create spaces range from local (Chad Oppenheim) to international (Doug and Gene Meyer).
Through December 16.
1444 Biscayne Blvd.
casadecor-usa.com

Design Miami
Tokujin Yoshioka, the 2007 Designer of the Year, is creating a permanent installation, while last year’s winner, Marc Newson, will install a new fence that he conceived for the local school, the Design & Architecture Senior High.
December 6–9.
4040 NE sec ond Ave.
designmiami.com

Nada
The 117-member nonprofit New Art Dealers Alliance fair at the Ice Palace is great for bargain hunting. Find such galleries as White Columns, Rivington Arms, and Roebling Hall.
December 5–9.
1400 N. Miami Ave.
newartdealers.org

Pulse
The 70-gallery fair leaves its tent this year for a newly renovated 40,000-square-foot home. This move adds space for large-scale installations and an outdoor lounge, plus Murakami’s Geisai fair for emerging artists.
2136 NW First Ave.
pulse-art.com

Scope
Over in Roberto Clemente Park, this year’s Scope features the Urban Nomad Project, an underground festival of digital, alternative, and web-based shorts by filmmakers from the developing world, including Burma and North Korea.
December 6–9.
101 NW 34 St.
scope-art.com

Play:

Arrive Miami
Dao-Yi, former creative director of Sean John, teamed up with local nightlife fixture Max Pierre on this sleek, all-white space resembling a 1970s bachelor pad. Among the unisex beauty and fashion gear are vintage YSL sunglasses, Nokia gadgets, Malin+Goetz lotions, and fashions by Marc Jacobs.
100 16th St.
305/604-5818
arrivemiami.com

Back 9 Putt-Putt
The nine-hole mini-golf course designed by local artists was such a hit at last year’s Basel, it now has a permanent home in this garden center on the mainland. No hole is named, so you can also play Spot the Hernan Bas (or Daniel Arsham, or...). The $5 entry fee includes a stiff piña colada.
7244 Biscayne Blvd.
305/984-3231
uppereastsidegarden.com

Base Annex
Earlier this year, artist-designer-curator Steven Giles opened a large, labyrinthine second store so he could add more housewares (Tobias Wong, Fornasetti) to the clothing, art books, and rare CDs of the original Base. During Basel, Giles will host local artist David Leroi and graffiti artist Gustavo Oviedo.
927 Lincoln Rd.
Suite 118
305/695-4026
baseworld.com

Marimekko
The design house founded in Helsinki in the 1950s opened a store here just last year. It sells a full range of those distinctive Marimekko prints adorning everything from clothing to housewares. Look especially for quirky items like slippers and disposable coasters.
1671 Meridian Ave.
305/496-0449
marimekkomiami.com

Tomas Maier
Four years ago, Bottega Veneta’s Maier converted a 1930s apartment building on the deserted bay side of South Beach into a series of rooms showcasing the Florida lifestyle. Shop for Maier’s own men’s and women’s wear (think bikinis and lightweight cashmere), plus his pick of gifts and housewares. During the fair, catch works by Naoya Hatakeyama.
1800 West Ave.
305/531-8383
tomasmaier.com

"When in Miami for...Art Basel Miami Beach" was originally published in the Winter 2007 issue of Culture + Travel magazine.