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Mexico City


By David Lida

Published: February 21, 2008

The following appeared in the January/February 2008 issue of Culture+Travel along with the article "Where Everybody Knows Your Nombre."

Drink:

Cantinas: El Nivel
Cale Moneda 2, Centro Histórico
52-555/522-9755

Tío Pepe
Corner of Independencia and Dolores, Centro Histórico
52-555/512-7844

La Mascota
Corner of Mesones and Bolívar, Centro Histórico
52-555/709-7852

La Valenciana
Calle Universidad 48, Col. Narvarte
52-553/330-7507

La Autentica
Corner of Álvaro Obregón and Avenida Cuauhtémoc, Col. Roma
52-555/564-7588

Bars:

Area
This perpetually fashionable rooftop terrace lounge has great views—not only of the surrounding skyscrapers but also of the soap-opera stars, magnates, and their molls who frequent the bar. The service is excellent, as is the menu of exotic cocktails.
Hotel Habita
Lamartine 347, Col. Polanco
52-555/280-0231

Cibeles
You could easily mistake this trendy lounge for a furniture store selling kitsch living room sets from the 1960s. Each arrangement marks its own area—Danish modern, stuffed yellow sofas inherited from someone’s grandmother, a table for 12 fit for a family reunion, even a set covered in heavy plastic. There’s a great selection of tequilas and whiskies, and snacks including oysters Rockefeller and individual pizzas.
Plaza Villa de Madrid 17, Col . Roma
52-555/208-202

San Angel Inn
The patio of this restaurant in a 19th-century hacienda is beautifully verdant and pastoral. Sit among the hanging bougainvillea and glimpse a peacock picking its way around the central fountain while you enjoy an exemplary martini or a margarita served in a silver jar.
Diego Rivera 50, Col. San Angel Inn
52-555/616-140

Zinco Jazz Club
In the basement of a former bank in the colonial center, the Zinco reminds you of jazz bars from 1950s movies, with its exposed brick, red velvet curtains, and smoky ambience. On any given night you might hear a Latin group from New York, an Argentine neotango band, or some burghers from Bavaria playing Dixieland. Dinner is available.
Motolinia 20, Centro Histórico
52-555/512-3369

Stay:

Camino Real
The most architecturally refreshing of D.F.’s luxury hotels, this exuberant giant, designed by Ricardo Logorrhea in 1968, has aged well. You feel like an extra in a James Bond movie as you stroll from the poolside garden to the lobby café, with its Rufino Tamayo mural, and onward to the bar, with a river under its Plexiglas floor. Restaurants include outposts of Bice, China Grill, and Le Cirque.
Mariano Escobedo 700, Col. Anzures
52-555/263-8888
RATES: $130–$200
caminoreal.com/mexico

La Casona
Notable for its service, with attention paid to individual needs, La Casona has 29 rooms, each decorated distinctly, all with antique furniture. It’s located within walking distance of fashionable Condesa and Zona Rosa, and the public areas are tranquil, especially the garden of the Piaf restaurant.
Durango 280, Col. Roma
52-555/286-3001
RATES: $195–$225
hotellacasona.com.mx

Condesa DF
With 40 well-appointed rooms located in the city’s trendiest neighborhood, Condesa DF is also something of a scene, with restaurants and bars on the roof and in the lobby, a movie theater in the basement, and a weekend disco. It’s an obligatory stop for visiting movie stars, pop acts, and socialites.
Avenida Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa
52-555/241-2600
RATES: $195–$225
condesadf.com

Four Seasons
A short walk from the Chapultepec Castle, this Four Seasons is built around a lovely courtyard with a fountain and a landscaped garden. Service is impeccable, with name checks from all the staff. Although the rooms lack character, they’re spacious, calm oases in a resolutely chaotic city.
Paseo de la Reforma 500, Col. Juárez
52-555/230-1818
RATES: $225–$400
fourseasons.com/mexico

Hippodrome
A stone’s throw from the Condesa DF but much quieter, this 16-room one-year-old is recast from Art Deco apartments. Currently the only public area is a small restaurant in the lobby, but this year a basement lounge will be added.
Avenida Mexico 188, Col. Condesa
52-555/212-2110
RATES: $230–$380
thehippodromehotel.com

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