Sheraton Alameda Centro Histórico
The only luxury option in the center, near the best cantinas. With 457 rooms, it has every amenity—except a personal touch. In the lobby is El Cardenal, one of the city’s best restaurants, as well as a wine bar with 200 choices.
Avenida Juárez 70, Col. Centro
52-555/130-5300
RATES: $205–$355
sheratonmexico.com

Eat:

Aguila y Sol
Chef Martha Ortiz updates Mexican cuisine with global techniques: Try sliced duck in black mole with black-bean tamales, or grilled fish with a creamy sauce of lora chiles. This is one fashionable place; don’t even think about coming without a reservation.
Emilio Castelar 229, Col. Polanco
52-555/281-8354

El Bajio
Although far from the city center, El Bajio is a favorite of renowned cookbook author Diana Kennedy and one of the country’s best restaurants. Bean-stuffed empanadas of plantain dough; crabmeat tacos; and carnitas (pork braised in spices and milk and then fried) are the essential orders.
Av. Cuitlahuac 2709, Col. Obrera Popular
52-555/341-9889

Biko
Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso, disciples of innovative Spaniard Juan Mari Arzak, opened Biko last June. The menu is part whimsical,
part traditional Spanish. Typical is grilled tuna served with warm watermelon and a sauce of fruits and nuts.
Pres. Masaryk 407, Col. Polanco
52-555/282-2064

Contramar
This trendy fish place does novel twists on Mexican seafood, its signature dish being a split snapper, half with a red spice rub, the other with green. Lunch only; no reservations. Try between 1:30 and 2 P.M., or at 5 P.M., when the crowds have thinned.
Calle Durango 200, Col. Roma
52-555/514-921

Izote
Patricia Quintana, famed author of over a dozen cookbooks, tweaks traditional Mexican food. Standouts include lamb steamed in banana leaf with three sauces, and fish with cuitlacoche (corn fungus) and an infusion of saffron cream.
Presidente Masaryk 513, local 3, Col . Polanco
52-555/280-1671

Pujol
At arguably the best restaurant in town, chef Enrique Olvera’s menu changes constantly, but “cappuccino” of zucchini, coconut milk, and nutmeg; sea bass al pastor, with garlic, pineapple, and annatto; or venison with 3 banana sauces are regulars. The $75 seven-course tasting menu with four wines is a worthwhile investment.
Francisco Petrarca 254, Col. Polanco
52-555/545-4111

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