May 16, 2008 
January/February 2008 Table of Contents
Published: March 15, 2010
 
Culture+Travel: Pushkin Is Our Everything
Culture+Travel: Compass: Russia
Culture+Travel: Vinter Vonderland
Culture+Travel: The Seven Ages of the Cocktail
Culture+Travel: Where Everybody Knows Your Nombre
Culture+Travel: Dispatches
Culture+Travel: When In ... Madrid
Culture+Travel: Burmese Daze
FEATURES
A Russian émigré visits the ghosts of literary St. Petersburg, and of her childhood – and gets spooked. By Anya von Bremzen. Collages by Balint Szako
Read the Article 60 Compass: St. Petersburg by the book. Plus, Moscow modern: endangered Constructivist buildings. Read the Article 
Photographer Lars Tunbjörk beat his seasonal depression by shooting pictures like a madman. His chilly scenes of
Sweden offer cold comfort.
Interview by Susan Chumsky
70 Compass: Where to stay warm in wintry Stockholm. 
It survived Prohibition, ready-made margarita mixes, and Tom Cruise. Now the artful American cocktail is back for another round.
By Kolby Yarnell. Photographs by Matthu Placek
78 Compass: New-wave cocktail bars. Plus, what the well-stocked bar needs now. 
Every fall, tourists flock to Churchill, Manitoba, to gawk at the polar bears. What does global warming look like from its front lines?
By Joe Yogerst. Photographs by Jill Greenberg
84 Compass: Communing with the bears. 
Dwarfs croon, new-best-friends bestow gifts, and free food abounds in the exceedingly boozy, totally loco world of Mexico City cantinas. By David Lida. Photographs by Kevin Cooley
Read the Article 94 Compass: The best places to say salud, and other diversions in Mexico City. Read the Article
DEPARTMENTS
  
Big Ben spawns two smaller Bens, the Panama Jazz Festival steps out, Van Gogh’s
doodles get the museum treatment, and other arts and travel highlights from around the world.
After you’ve checked out the contemporary art at ARCO ‘08, kick back, kick up your (flamenco) heels, and
experience the real city that never sleeps.
Peter Doig and Chris Ofili are the most renowned artists in Trinidad, and believe it or not that’s saying a lot. The isle has become the art capital of the Caribbean.
By Nicholas Laughlin
34 Compass: A tour of Trinidad’s vibrant art scene and Carnival. 
You call that a banana? As more food comes from a lab, it all starts to taste like agar-agar.
By Frederick Kaufman
At Propeller Island City Lodge in Berlin, guests sleep in art installations that double as
bedrooms. Just don’t have sex in the coffins.
By Anna Watson 
Eau de Westin? Essence of Langham? Hotel chains are puttin’ on the spritz in
earnest, trying to reach guests through their nostrils. Does scent branding work, or
does it have a whiff of the charlatan?
By Mary Alice Kellogg 
The pristine beaches! The spectacular
Buddhist temples! The evil military junta!
Should travelers visit the country-size
prison of Burma? And what will they find
there if they do? By Joe Dolce
Read the Article 
Telling stories in Central Park, one of the world’s great people-watching spots.
By Susan Chumsky
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