May/June 2008 Table of Contents
Published: May 1, 2008
 
Culture+Travel: An Orange Revolution
Culture+Travel: Compass Valencia
Culture+Travel: ¡GOL!
Culture+Travel: Compass Madrid
Culture+Travel: Mad Skills
Culture+Travel: Puccini the Lady Killer
Culture+Travel: O Sole Mio
Culture+Travel: Raisins in the Sun
Culture+Travel: The Oddity of Homer
FEATURES
In the wake of the America’s Cup
last year, Valencia
has gone from sleepy
to juiced in record
time. It’s a city
of restored Art Nouveau
and soaring
Calatravas, oldtime
fiestas and
chic A-list parties.
By Anya von Bremzen.
Photographs by
Jason Fulford
84 Compass:
These days Valencia
has far more than
paella to recommend
it (but don’t miss
the paella). 
In Spain’s overheated
soccer culture, one team
seems to thrive
on losing: Atlético
Madrid, a.k.a.
"the jinxed." A New
York Yankee hater
joins their masochistic
fans and
learns to love the
thrill of defeat.
By Barry Yourgrau. Photographs by Mathias Braschler and Monika Fischer Read the Article
94 Compass: Madrid’s hottest
spots, on and off
the field. Plus,
anticipating Expo
2008, Zaha Hadid
and others build
Zaragoza’s bridge
to the world.
At an institution
outside Vienna,
"special" artists
create collectible
works—and the
staff makes sure
they take their
meds three times a
day. Just don’t call
them patients.
By Daphne Merkin.
Photographs by Stefan Ruiz Read the Article 108 Compass: Have a ball in Vienna. Plus, Jean Dubuffet, the godfather of Outsider Art. 
A murderous
opera composer,
a love-struck fan,
and the madly
leaping, poison-herb-eating,
wig-igniting divas
who inspired
them: Mamma mia!
By Fred Plotkin.
Collages by Balint
Zsako
116 Compass: Happy birthday, Giacomo! How to celebrate Puccini’s 150th, in Italy and stateside. 
Photographer
Luigi Ghirri turns
a prankish eye
toward Italy and
finds lots of love
among the ruins.
By Craig Seligman
DEPARTMENTS
 
The buxom women in Fellini’s head, a U.N.–
Hollywood schmoozefest
in Jackson Hole, a
Hubble in your laptop,
and other arts and
travel highlights from
around the world.
Where to kick back
and unwind from
the frenzy of the 5th
Berlin Biennial, the
Moscow World Fine
Art Fair, Art Basel, the
Brussels Oriental and
Ancient Art Fairs, and
the Tour de France.
32 Berlin
From jazz
to fringe theater, from
Glasgow to Athens, the
Continent is abuzz this
spring and summer.
London’s fusty
Connaught gets a
face-lift, fortunately
leaving no visible
scars. Rock stars and
Rockefellers approve.
By Kate Sekules
As the earth heats up,
will the grapes in
Burgundy shrivel on
the vine? Will a new
Champagne region
sprout in Denmark? At
a wine confab, the
experts sip and ponder.
By Melissa Clark
Three ingenious
North American chefs
create a stir, in Paris,
Lisbon, and Berlin.
An Abe Lincoln impersonator
and a Michael
Jackson impersonator
blast through a little
Scottish town on motorcycle
while shouting
through a megaphone …
which can only mean
that Harmony Korine is
shooting a movie.
By Richard Strange
Read the Article
59 Compass: In Scotland, your
home away from home
is your castle. 
Why do fair-haired
Greek heroes encounter
snow in the Mediterranean?
Maybe it’s
because they’re Nordic.
A classicist sets sail to
test a radical theory.
By William Mullen
Picture an edgy Colonial
Williamsburg,
transport it to the
Netherlands, and fill
the buildings with up-to-
the-minute art and
design, and you get
some idea of the new-and-improved Zuiderzee
Museum.
By Maria Shollenbarger
71 Compass: The Netherlands, design paradise.
In a small Piedmontese
town, members of an
agricultural commune
with names like Ant
Coriander and Sunset-Butterfly Pineapple
have drilled into
a mountain to create
the most fanciful,
elaborately painted
caves since
Tutankhamen.
By Graeme Wood
Karl himself was
on display at the grand
department store
Printemps, and all of
Paris came to gawk. By Mary Alice Kellogg
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