When in France for... Le Tour de France

Photo by Tim Clinch, courtesy Les Prés d'Eugénie

Michel Guérard's gardens at Les Prés d'Eugénie

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What: A 23-day cycling race featuring 198 riders and covering 2,175 miles around France.
When: July 5–27.
Where: Beginning in Brittany and winding to Paris by way of the Loire Valley, the Massif Central, Bordeaux, the Pyrenees, Languedoc-Roussillon, and the Alps.
Highlights: With the retirement of Lance Armstrong in 2005 and some star riders banned for doping, the race is wide open. Watch the climbers—this Tour has many mountains and few flat-terrain time trials.

Brittany:
(July 5–7)

The first three stages take place in this windy region of small hills and Atlantic vistas. The best plan is to crisscross the route, hopping out to cheer the riders, and to retire to a café to watch the sprint finales on TV. The first stage, into Plumelec, includes a sharp little climb a mile before the finish. Expect the race to break apart on the narrow road, and a bold attacker to take the first yellow jersey.

HOTEL ELIZABETH
The second stage begins in Saint-Malo, which, with its ancient fortifications, ocean views, and nice beach, makes a perfect home for a few days. Get one of the nautical influenced “ship owner” rooms in this restored 17th-century house in the ramparts.
2, RUE DES CORDIERS,
ST. MALO
332/99-56-24-98
rates: $100–$230
st-malo-hotel-elizabeth.com

LE RELAIS GOURMAND O. ROELLINGER
In nearby Cancale, the Guy Savoy–trained chef Olivier Roellinger expresses his love of Brittany’s bounty in a “cuisine de marine, potagère, et épicée” (of the sea, kitchen garden, and spice cabinet). Go whole hog and reserve a room in one of the seven houses on the gorgeous grounds.
1, RUE DUGUESCLIN,
CANCALE
332/99-89-64-76

Pyrenees:
(July 13–16)

Intense racing begins on stage 10 with the summit finish at Hautacam, where all the contenders will be looking to put their stamp on the tour. The steep 11-mile climb is preceded by the Col du Tourmalet—the first of the great peaks to be included in the race, in 1910, when it was still an unpaved goat track. They’re climbing the eastern side this year: a mere 10.5 miles of brutal ascent, followed by a rapid plunge into the valley. The finish will be mobbed and traffic horrendous. Instead, find a switchback on the Tourmalet to watch the riders’ slow climb alongside avid Basque fans wearing orange.

HOTEL PARC BEAUMONT
The town of Pau is a great Pyrenees base. It’s also the start of stage 10, so it will be a carnival of festivities for the Tour (and Bastille Day). You can walk to everything from this attractive, modern, central hotel, but best of all is your balcony and its view.
1, AVENUE EDOUARD VII,
PAU
335/59-11-84-00
rates: $310–$440
hotel-parc-beaumont.com

LES PRES D'EUGENIE
About 30 miles north of Pau is Eugénie-les-Bains, home to the Michel Guérard empire. You can’t eat better anywhere in France, and as Guérard is the creator of cuisine minceur (slimming cuisine), you might not even gain weight.
EUGENIE-LES-BAINS
335/58-05-05-05

Languedoc-Roussillon:
(July 17–19)

Nîmes is one of France’s most charming cities and a fine place to catch the Tour as the participants “relax” for three days between the rigors of the Pyrenees and the Alps. Riders with no chance at the overall title will take all three stages, making for some fine spectating. Also see the Maison Carrée, one of Europe’s best-preserved Roman temples, which has an amphitheater next door.

ROYAL HOTEL
In a converted town house in the center of Nîmes, this place has charming, small, reasonably priced rooms. It’s decorated with posters from decades of local bullfights, and the staff willingly dispenses expert tourist advice.
3, BLVD. ALPHONSE DAUDET,
NIMES
334/66-58-28-27
rates: $95–$175
royalhotel-nimes.com

RESTAURANT ALEXANDRE
Here’s both a triumph of local cuisine and a great place to learn about the renaissance of the region’s wines. Michael Kayser and his wife, Monique, will steer you to local cheeses, dishes like zucchini flowers filled with brandade of cod, and ultramodern wines.
ROUTE DE L'AEROPORT,
NIMES GARONS
334/66-70-08-99