Owner James Attali is a longtime friend of Pierre Vasarely, who has been coming here regularly for decades. Named for Attali's late wife, the restaurant serves up daily specials of fresh fish and meat and the special Charlotte banana pudding for dessert. Expect to see Attali bantering with the regulars who congregate on the rear terrace during the warmer months.
32, Rue des Bernardines
33/442-267-756
La Chimere Cafe
This dinner-only establishment offers an excellent $45 menu that changes nightly. Expect whimsical concoctions of local, fresh ingredients with drizzles of sauce and garnishes like shaved fennel. The atmosphere is a rococo mix of gilt and crimson, with angels throughout.
15, Rue Brueys
33/442-370-900
Le Passage
Opened in 2004, Le Passage’s mission is to be young and hip. Though it probably tries a little too hard, it’s still a notable addition to tradition-steeped Aix. The multilevel space has cooking classes (taught by chef-owner Reine Sammut), a tapas bar, and several dining options—including a leafy terrace. Try the foie gras with kumquat chutney or the catch of the day with fresh thyme and market vegetables.
10, Rue Villars
33/442-370-900
La Villa Gallici
A bit of a hike from the town center, this 9-room, 13-apartment Relais & Châteaux hotel feels like an illustrious country home. The three course dinner ($90–$140) from chef Christophe Gavot may include panfried John Dory fillet served with cumin-spiked eggplant pudding or a crispy lamb tenderloin pie served with aromatic fresh goat cheese.
Ave. de la Violette
33/442-233-923
$340–$600
villagallici.com
See:
Bibemus
The Roman quarries known as Bibémus, in the hills of Aix, are where Cézanne made some of his most important artistic discoveries. Already overgrown when he arrived in 1895, the vision of nature reconquering a manmade landscape appealed to him deeply. The quarries were cleared in 2006 for the centenary of Cézanne’s death. The views of Mont Sainte-Victoire are not just iconic, but truly moving. Arrange for a tour with Loni Benoit through the tourism office in town.
33/442-161-161
Grand Theatre de Provence
The fall program at Aix's new theater will include an evening with Steve Reich (October), Schubert chamber music (November), and a performance of Mozart's Requiem by Cappella Amsterdam.
380, Ave. Max Juvenal
33/442-916-969
grandtheatre.fr
Manor of Jas de Boufan
Cézanne devotees will cherish the rows of chestnut trees, farm buildings, and fountains at the Bouffan estate— he painted them all. The artist was 20 when his father bought the two-story manor in 1859, and it was opened in 2006 for the centenary. Cézanne took over the main drawing room, painting directly onto the walls, and a film recreates the effect. More renovations here are on the horizon. Arrange a visit through the tourism office.
33/442-161-161
Muse Granet
Aix’s main museum will never cease paying for the mistake of not embracing Cézanne during his lifetime—the dearth of works by him in its collection is a constant reminder. The city compensates by scheduling an exhibition of the artist's work every few years—and by talking about it constantly before it opens and after it closes. The effect is a bit of revisionist history. "Picasso Regarde Cézanne," scheduled to open in June 2009 with some 70 works by Picasso and 30 by Cézanne, is what all the current chatter is about.
PL. Saint Jean de Malte
33/442-528-832
museegranet-aixenprovence.fr
Vauvenargues
The 14th-century château outside Aix where Picasso's buried—and which is owned by his stepdaughter Catherine Hutin—will open to the public for the first time next year for six months to coincide with the Picasso-Cézanne exhibition at Musée Granet. Picasso bought the place in 1958, after learning that it sat on the slope of Mont Sainte-Victoire. "I have just bought myself Cézanne's mountain," he told his agent, who in turn asked, "Which one?" Picasso replied: "The original." For information about arranging a visit, contact the Aix tourism office.
33/442-161-161
VASARELY'S EMPIRE
Institut Hongrois
The Hungarian Institute in Paris will mount an exhibition of work by Vasarely in November.
92, Rue Bonaparte
33/143-260-644
instituthongrois.fr
La Fondation Vasarely
The foundation is on the mend. Though it still shows decades of neglect, the efforts of Pierre Vasarely, the artist’s grandson, are improving it. Through October 30 a traveling exhibition of 60 works by Vasarely (from the Pecs museum and private collections) will be on view.
1, Ave. Marcel Pagnol, Aix-en-Provence
33/442-200-109
fondationvasarely.fr
Budapest Vasarely Museum
In 1987 Vasarely established his second museum in Hungary. It has some 400 works, all donated by the artist.
III. Szentlelek Ter 1,
BUDAPEST
36/12-50-15-40
Pecs Vasarely Museum
In 1976, the same year as he opened his foundation in Aix, Vasarely established another museum in the town of Pecs, Hungary, where he was born. Its collection remains intact, with some 400 works on display.
Kapta lan Utca 3,
PECS
36/72-51-40-44
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