see also
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Stay:
Hôtel des
Academies et
des Arts
Riffing off Montparnasse’s
bohemian past,
and its location opposite
Gauguin and Giacometti’s
art school, this sweet
18-month-old is cozy
and autumnal. Painter
Jérôme Mesnager’s
trademark artist doll
figures frolic everywhere,
and spotlights,
mirrors, maroon velvets,
and beige-and-brown
stripes keep the arty
vibe going—comforts
aren’t forgotten though:
flatscreens, minibars,
and WiFi are all present.
15, Rue de la Grande
Chaumiere, 6th arr.
331/43-26-66-44
rat es: $275–$355
hoteldesacademies.com
Hotel Amour
Don’t think of staying
here if you’re (a) old
or (b) prudish. Both
owned and frequented
(though not exclusively)
by hipsters—it’s in trendy
South Pigalle (SoPi)
whose peep shows lent
the theme—some decor is
R-rated, and you can rent
by the hour. There aren’t
any TVs, minibars, or
phones, but it’s surprisingly
homey, and the
eclectic flea market
decor is inspired. The hit
bistro has a courtyard
and good, simple food.
8, Rue Navarin, 9th Arr.
331/48-78-31-80
rat es: $155–$310
website currently unavailable
Hôtel Particulier
Montmartre
Good luck scoring one
of the five suites in this
grand townhouse—home
to the Guerrand branch
of the Hermès clan
till recently. In its own
cobblestoned, landscaped
secret world, the
exterior resembles
Madeleine’s house, while
inside is chic-chic-chic.
Twentieth-century furniture
(from a top dealer)
is changed every three
months—think Eames, Le
Corbusier—and artists
collaborated on the
decor, which is anything
but traditional.
23, Av . Junot , 18th arr.
331/53-41-81-40
rat es: $600–$900
hotel-particulier-montmartre.com
Hotel Lumen
Open just a year, this
soigné 32-room boutique,
with Milan-urban
interiors by Claudio
Colucci, has a striking
steel gray and silver
lobby that’s nice to come
home to. The smallness
of the rooms is exaggerated
by a smoky charcoal-
maroon palette;
they’re cozy, but the see-thru
glass bathroom
walls won’t suit everyone.
Best are the bright
rooms overlooking Saint
Roch church. It couldn’t
be more central (except
for Rive Gauche snobs).
15, Rue des Pyramides,
1st Arr.
331/44-50-77-00
rat es: $350–$775
hotel-lumenparis.com
Le Royal Monceau
The 8th arr. classic threw
itself an arty, starry,
rocking demolition party
in June. After a Philippe
Starck (again) redo,
it’ll reopen in late-2009.
royalmonceau.com
Trianon Palace
Versailles
An incongruous Westin
takeover was recently
completed at this faux
palais (where the 1919
Treaty of Versailles was
drawn up), but grandeur
survives, despite a purple-
and-beige contemporary
overlay in the
rooms. French-windowed
bathrooms, and marble
checkerboard floor
running the length of the
building, plus a hamamstyle
spa are all glamorous.
Get a room up
front: There’s nothing like
waking up with the Sun
King’s palace in your
face. Versailles visits are
the reason to stay here.
1, Blvd. de la Reine
Versailles
331/30-84-50-00
RATES: $660–$890
westin.com/trianonpalace
Eat:
L’Absinthe
Popular with BCBG denizens
of the Faubourg
Saint Honoré, Caroline
Rostang’s bistro is quite
modern, despite its brick
walls and wood paneling.
Chef Dominique Clement
does haute comfort food
like rich, soupy langoustine
ravioli, and macaroni
and cheese, with lobster.
24, Pl . du Marche
Saint-Honore, 1st arr.
331/49-26-90-04
La Bigarrade
Since April, the open
kitchen of Christophe
Pelé, turning out lovable
market-led, multi-course
modern French menus,
has caused a lot of
arty types to trek out to
Batignolles (the fenne-lorange
focaccia alone is
worth it). His last gig was
at the Royal Monceau
(see above), where he
had nothing like the acclaim
he’s garnering
here. Call ahead—he has
just 20 green armchairs
in the tiny, pretty space.
106, Rue No llet,
17th arr.
331/42-26-01-02
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