see also
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Stay:
Hôtel des
Academies et
des Arts
Riffing off Montparnasse’s
bohemian past,
and its location opposite
Gauguin and Giacometti’s
art school, this sweet
18-month-old is cozy
and autumnal. Painter
Jérôme Mesnager’s
trademark artist doll
figures frolic everywhere,
and spotlights,
mirrors, maroon velvets,
and beige-and-brown
stripes keep the arty
vibe going—comforts
aren’t forgotten though:
flatscreens, minibars,
and WiFi are all present.
15, Rue de la Grande
Chaumiere, 6th arr.
331/43-26-66-44
rat es: $275–$355
hoteldesacademies.com
Hotel Amour
Don’t think of staying
here if you’re (a) old
or (b) prudish. Both
owned and frequented
(though not exclusively)
by hipsters—it’s in trendy
South Pigalle (SoPi)
whose peep shows lent
the theme—some decor is
R-rated, and you can rent
by the hour. There aren’t
any TVs, minibars, or
phones, but it’s surprisingly
homey, and the
eclectic flea market
decor is inspired. The hit
bistro has a courtyard
and good, simple food.
8, Rue Navarin, 9th Arr.
331/48-78-31-80
rat es: $155–$310
website currently unavailable
Hôtel Particulier
Montmartre
Good luck scoring one
of the five suites in this
grand townhouse—home
to the Guerrand branch
of the Hermès clan
till recently. In its own
cobblestoned, landscaped
secret world, the
exterior resembles
Madeleine’s house, while
inside is chic-chic-chic.
Twentieth-century furniture
(from a top dealer)
is changed every three
months—think Eames, Le
Corbusier—and artists
collaborated on the
decor, which is anything
but traditional.
23, Av . Junot , 18th arr.
331/53-41-81-40
rat es: $600–$900
hotel-particulier-montmartre.com
Hotel Lumen
Open just a year, this
soigné 32-room boutique,
with Milan-urban
interiors by Claudio
Colucci, has a striking
steel gray and silver
lobby that’s nice to come
home to. The smallness
of the rooms is exaggerated
by a smoky charcoal-
maroon palette;
they’re cozy, but the see-thru
glass bathroom
walls won’t suit everyone.
Best are the bright
rooms overlooking Saint
Roch church. It couldn’t
be more central (except
for Rive Gauche snobs).
15, Rue des Pyramides,
1st Arr.
331/44-50-77-00
rat es: $350–$775
hotel-lumenparis.com
Le Royal Monceau
The 8th arr. classic threw
itself an arty, starry,
rocking demolition party
in June. After a Philippe
Starck (again) redo,
it’ll reopen in late-2009.
royalmonceau.com
Trianon Palace
Versailles
An incongruous Westin
takeover was recently
completed at this faux
palais (where the 1919
Treaty of Versailles was
drawn up), but grandeur
survives, despite a purple-
and-beige contemporary
overlay in the
rooms. French-windowed
bathrooms, and marble
checkerboard floor
running the length of the
building, plus a hamamstyle
spa are all glamorous.
Get a room up
front: There’s nothing like
waking up with the Sun
King’s palace in your
face. Versailles visits are
the reason to stay here.
1, Blvd. de la Reine
Versailles
331/30-84-50-00
RATES: $660–$890
westin.com/trianonpalace
Eat:
L’Absinthe
Popular with BCBG denizens
of the Faubourg
Saint Honoré, Caroline
Rostang’s bistro is quite
modern, despite its brick
walls and wood paneling.
Chef Dominique Clement
does haute comfort food
like rich, soupy langoustine
ravioli, and macaroni
and cheese, with lobster.
24, Pl . du Marche
Saint-Honore, 1st arr.
331/49-26-90-04
La Bigarrade
Since April, the open
kitchen of Christophe
Pelé, turning out lovable
market-led, multi-course
modern French menus,
has caused a lot of
arty types to trek out to
Batignolles (the fenne-lorange
focaccia alone is
worth it). His last gig was
at the Royal Monceau
(see above), where he
had nothing like the acclaim
he’s garnering
here. Call ahead—he has
just 20 green armchairs
in the tiny, pretty space.
106, Rue No llet,
17th arr.
331/42-26-01-02
Chez Georges
This old-fashioned
restaurant—all lined-up
tables, tiled floors, mirrored
walls, and clattering
cutlery—is so
anti-design that it’s a
design classic. When all
you want is something
bourgeois like a perfect
turbot and a bowl of
mustardy salade verte
served by bossy women,
this hits the spot.
1, Rue du Mail, 2nd Arr.
331/42-60-07-11
Restaurant
Itineraires
Though open only since
April, young Lyonnais
chef Silvain Sendra’s
Saint-Germain boîte
is a top table to score.
Inventive contemporary
cooking—involving, say,
borage flowers, pickled
lemon, dried tuna,
though not in the same
dish—ordered from
chalkboard menus at
$53 for three courses
explains the popularity.
5, Rue de Pontoise,
5th arr.
331/46-33-60-11
Pierre Herme
To visit the second
Paris boutique of the
sweetmeat maestro
is to experience gourmandises
as jewelry,
arranged in artfully lit
orange-fronted glass
cases. His macaroons
beat Ladurée’s, especially
the seasonal
modern flavors: Truffle
should be debuting
around now.
185, Rue de Vaugirard,
15th arr.
331/47-83-89-96
Play:
Le 66
Heralding—they hope—
a mini-renaissance for
the tourist trap street,
this (nearly) year-old bilevel
store stocks over
100 designers: young
men’s and women’s indy
French labels (Iro) and imports
plus housewares,
tchotchkes, and books.
66 Champs Elysees,
8th arr.
331/53-53-33-80
Bacqueville
The maker of military and
honorary decorations
(the Légion d’Honneur!)
is one of the original
tenants of the designifying
Palais Royal—since
1790. There’s a tiny
but good range of funky
jewelry by Paris artisans.
6–8
Galerie Montpensier, Jardin du Palais
Royal, 1st arr.
331/42-96-26-90
Black Block
Since it’s under the aegis
of tastemaking graffiti
artist and club owner
André, this store is faaabulous.
Deli-style refrigerators
display desirable
design from Maharishi’s
Johnny Rotten doll
to Comme des Garçons
scents, then there are
rare Japanese sneakers,
a rack of funky ’70s vintage
frocks, plus limited
editions worthy of the
museum upstairs.
Palais de Tokyo,
13, av e. du President
Wilson, 16th arr.
331/47-23-37-04
C42
You may not be buying
cars, but do drop in
to architect Manuelle
Gautrand’s year-old
chevron-fronted Citroën
palace: a glass tower for
France’s iconic marque.
42, Champs Elysees,
8th Arr.
331/43-59-62-20
Didier Ludot
In the galeries of the
Palais Royal are a clutch
of fashion-forward
stores, including two
super-high-end vintage
meccas. To enter Ludot
you’d better be in
the market for a Poiret
original or an haute
couture Dior gown, at
several thousand dollars.
20–24, Galerie de
Montpensier, Palais
Royal, 1st arr.
331/42-96-06-56
Dognin
In his new store in
the emerging Goutte
d’Or neighborhood,
Luc Dognin hand-makes
exquisite leather goods
in fascinating colors.
The patented (literally)
curve-bottomed purses
(Barneys and Bergdorf
carry a few) outdo any
status “it bag.” Prices
start around $780.
4, Rue des Gardes,
18th arr.
331/44-92-32-16
Gabrielle Geppert
Consuela Castiglioni
(Marni) is one style
royal who gets inspiration
here. Geppert has
the world’s best eye
for vintage; her pieces
look more modern than
most runways. But
don’t expect service—if
you’re not fashion tribe,
she just about hisses.
31–34 Galerie de
Montpensier,
Palais Royal, 1st arr.
331/42-61-53-52
Hermes
Though Hermèses are
mushrooming, there’s
nothing like the flagship
and birthplace—tastefully
expanded a year
ago—for selection,
service, and atmosphere.
24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, 8th arr.
331/40-17-47-17
La Petite Robe Noire
For those with a
hankering for original
Balenciaga, but shopping
with dollars, there’s
Didier Ludot’s own line of
vintage-inspired cocktail
frocks. During fashion
week, peer in to see
who’s up and coming—
he showcases a young
designer in his windows.
125, Galerie de Valois ,
Palais Royal, 1st arr.
331/40-15-01-04
See:
Le 104
With an opening party
on October 11, the
breathlessly anticipated
“Cent Quatre” bursts
onto the scene, spreading
SoMo (south of
Montmartre) hipness
east to the border of
the 19th. This huge
new arts center has 200
resident artists (film,
design, photography,
video, performance),
plus a kids’ area, shops,
restaurants, and more.
104, Rue d’Aubervilliers, 19th arr.
331/40-05-51-71
104.fr
Cite de
l’Architecture
& du Patrimoine
The Palais de Chaillot’s
director, François de
Mazières, gave the
whole 110,000 square
feet a modern makeover,
exploiting the tension
between contemporary
architecture and heritage—
hence the new
name. Now it’s a must.
1, Place du Trocadero,
16th arr.
331/58-51-52-00
citechaillot.fr
Les Frigos
A sort of ancien 104,
this collective of artists,
designers, musicians,
comedians, web radio
broadcasters, photographers,
decorators—you
name it—inhabits the vast
five-story former Gare
Frigorifique de Paris-
Ivry. Exuberant events,
parties, and shows
happen constantly.
91, Quai de la Gare,
13th arr.
336/64-13-90-69
les-frigos.com
Le Laboratoire
This supercool new
center for art and
science (combined) in a
historic post-industrial
space was founded by
French-American David
Edwards, author of Artscience:
Creativity in
the Post-Google Era—as
you’d expect, it’s modern.
4, Rue du Bouloi ,
1st Arr.
331/78-09-49-50
lelaboratoire.org
La Pinacotheque
de Paris
This major private
gallery-museum opened
in summer. This fall
(after the Terracotta
Warriors depart) the
exhibits include Georges
Rouault paintings from
the Sazo Idemitsu collection,
and Jackson
Pollock works that show
how the painter was
influenced by American
Indian shamanism.
28, Pl. de la Madeleine,
8th arr.
331/42-68-02-01
pinacotheque.com
Rue Louise Weiss
Near the new Cité de
la Mode, nine young
contemporary galleries
form a coherent group,
exhibiting together at Art
Basel, Frieze Art Fair, etc.
Rue Louise Weiss,
13th arr.
336/01-94-53-57
louise13.fr
Suite Elle
Decoration
Palais de Chaillot
architect Jacques Carlu’s
apartment was decorated,
fancifully and
inspiringly, by Christian
Lacroix, collaborating
with Elle Décor—and it’s
an extraordinary space.
You will want to move in.
In December, the next
designer takes the jewel.
Closed Tuesdays.
1, Place du Trocadero,
16th arr.
331/58-51-52-00
citechaillot.fr
Cite de la Mode et du Design
For the average visitor
to Paris, la Rive Gauche
only extends as far
east as the Jardin des
Plantes—or the Gare
d’Austerlitz at a stretch.
But get ready to expand
those boundaries.
The essential itinerary
now includes the next Arrondissement along:
the 13th.
Opening this fall
is the eagerly anticipated
(especially by design
hounds) Cité de la Mode
et du Design (City of
Fashion and Design), a
wildly green $62.2 million
structure by Paris architects
Jakob + MacFarlane
(best known for the
restaurant Georges at
the Centre Pompidou)
that snakes along the
Quai d’Austerlitz by the
Pont de Bercy, in the
shadow of Mitterrand’s
bibliothèque. It’s the new
home of the IFM (Institut
Français de la Mode)
plus design ateliers,
stores, restaurants, cafés,
event spaces, and a
rooftop park. And having
had a good nose around
it with the architect, I
can tell you, it really is
good enough to redraw
the map.
Its alternative name,
“Paris Docks en Seine,”
gives the heads-up—
this place is best approached
from the water,
an attribute that was
built into the plans from
the first. Says principal
(with partner—also in
life—Dominique Jakob)
Brendan MacFarlane,
“All the development
that’s gone on on the
edge of the Thames has
been a huge stimulation.
Paris doesn’t happen on
its own. We created a
face for something that
was faceless.”
And what a face.
Nobody—except, true to
form, Le Corbusier—had
noticed this structure,
the 1907 former
Magasins Généraux
d’Austerlitz. Nobody will
ever miss it now. “This
was a purely functional
stock building, one of
the earliest reinforced
concrete structures
in Paris, not considered
architecture,” says
MacFarlane. “We were
given a choice in competition
to keep or lose
it, but we thought it very
beautiful and very unusual.
It’s highly artisanal
concrete—not the
kind we make today.
The sculptural aspects
appealed.” These have
been amplified by the
audacious emerald
appendage the architects
affectionately named
Le Plug Over. “We imagine
there’s a huge
extruded object running
over the building,” says
MacFarlane, accurately.
Ascending the wooden
stairway inside Le Plug
Over is fun. Supported
by geometries of green
piping, an articulated
green-flecked glass
wall undulates, at times
actually taking you out
over the water. The glass
is super hi-tech: Rhomboid
shapes, sealed
between two layers, vary
in size according to
height and angle, in
what MacFarlane calls
“a moirage effect—it’s
70-50-30 percent opaque
from top to bottom; it’s
a façade in flux, with the
movement of the river.”
Every detail of the
Cité is of a piece: The
sustainable Frenchgrown
oak is artfully
unfinished to match the
industrial age concrete,
left bare to show off
its pebbly handmade
texture. The big quailevel
deck is inset with
hundreds of tiny LED
lights, as is the roof, and
long tubes of light follow
the Plug Over’s curves.
The carefully sourced
green recurs—“a green
that vibrates was
very important,” says
MacFarlane—not least
on the roof, where it
literally springs to life.
“This building was
once going to be
demolished and made
into a park,” MacFarlane
explains, “hence the
green and this floating
park.” Celebrated
landscape architect
Michel Desvigne, who’s
collaborated with the
likes of Richard Rogers,
Renzo Piano, and Jean
Nouvel, planted “tundra
and pampas grass,
hairy on the edges, flat
in the middle,” says
MacFarlane. There are
deck chairs, glassfronted
“sky caves” for
shops, and a restaurant.
But however great
the building, what’s
inside had better be
good enough to draw
the punters to the ugly,
but nascently trendy,
treizième, where branché
youths enjoy the huge,
squatlike artists’ studio
collective, Les Frigos;
the young-contemporary
galleries of Rue Louise
Weiss; and the vast
MK2 movie multiplex, but
otherwise it’s all a bit
forlorn. Fashion students,
of course, will be captive
in the Cité in what
MacFarlane calls their
“visually porous school
spaces”—the IFM’s three
glass-walled stories
on the east end—but
fashion designers may
also come, to show in the
second floor exhibition
hall. “A cocktail-sized
space for defilés is very
unusual in Paris where
there are lots of huge
spaces,” says MacFarlane.
Meanwhile, prospective
tenants for the
many shops have had
to prepare “concept
files” showing how they’d
use the space for something
more arty than
bald commerce. A sexy,
snob collection of tastemaking
brands are
lined up—Silvera (contemporary
furniture from
big designers), Armand
Hadida (L’Eclaireur fashion
stores), and Ligne
Roset are among those
on board—and a whirlwind
of exhibitions,
fashion shows, theater,
dance, and music performances
are planned.
There are also cafés,
bars, and a TV studio.
“The idea was to
create a synergy, a
dialogue and kind of
energy,” says MacFarlane.
Touché!
"Compass: Paris" originally appeared in the Fall 2008 issue of Culture+Travel. For a complete list of articles from this issue available on ARTINFO, see Culture+Travel's Fall 2008 Table of Contents.
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