Galatoire's
A drawn-out midday meal at this mirror-lined French Quarter Creole palace remains one of the city’s defining culinary experiences. Feast on fresh-caught pompano amandine and impossibly light soufflé potatoes dipped in rich béarnaise. In keeping with the ways of the Old Line, arrive early—and properly dressed—and let the tuxedo-clad staff handle the rest. It’s handy for the Historic New Orleans Collection and Chen Chieh-Jen’s video installation.
714 Bourbon St.
504/525-2021

Mila
New Yorkers might remember the culinary team of Allison Vines and Slade Rushing from Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar, which they left to return here to their roots in 2005. In a sleek supper-club atmosphere they serve precise, playful Southern and contemporary French dishes (white asparagus velouté with Louisiana crawfish; porcini-dusted Gulf grouper; insanely rich rice pudding) and a signature riff on Oysters Rockefeller—poached oysters with bacon chips.
817 Common St.
504/412-2580

Upperline
This funky uptown standard has a welcoming energy and is hung with local artwork from the collection of its owner, bon vivant-about-town JoAnn Clevenger. She works the front of house like a charismatic dervish while chef Ken Smith produces dishes like a definitive dark-roux duck gumbo and fried green tomatoes with spicy shrimp rémoulade.
1413 Upperline St.
504/891-9822

Willie Mae's Scotch House
Floodwaters hit the historic Treme District hard, and this shrine to crispy Southern fried chicken teetered close to extinction. But, after a year long volunteer effort by the Southern Foodways Alliance, the doors reopened in April 2007. Now, under the care of Kerry Seaton (Willie Mae’s granddaughter), it’s again offering authentic Creole soul food for lunch on weekdays. Cash only.
2401 St. Anne St.
504/822-9503

Drink:
Tujague’s
Steps away from touristy Café Du Monde, this unassuming barroom houses the longest and oldest saloon bar in this city of historic drinkeries. Consider it ali quid history lesson to stop in for a Sazerac (spicy rye whiskey with Peychaud’s bitters and absinthe and citrus)—the newly crowned official cocktail of New Orleans—in one of its most revered institutions.
823 Decatur St.
504/525-8676

Napolean House Bar and Cafe
This 18th-century corner bar in the quarter played host to French nationalists who prepared a room for Mr. Bonaparte—just in case Elba didn’t work out. The ocher patina of the walls and the air of history make it the perfect afternoon detour. Sip the definitive Pimm’s cup, and indulge in a warm muffuletta.
500 Chartres St.
504/524-9752

Play:

Aiden Gill for Men
This suitably retro funky men’s barbershop-salon now boasts two locations. Gents can stop by for an updated “shave and a haircut,” complete with hot towels, skillful straight-razor treatment, and a stiff drink to boot.
2026 Magazine St.
504/587-9090
550 Fulton St.
504/566-4903

Frenchman Street
Music-crazy locals congregate on this strip of venues (between Decatur and Dauphine streets) a few blocks down river in the Faubourg Marigny District. Jazz flows out onto the street from bars such as the Spotted Cat (everything from swing to blues), Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro (the Marsalis family’s home port), and DBA (anything that will fit on stage).

Plum
This bright boutique stocks artsy housewares and gifts by local artists. Jewelry featuring iconic New Orleans images (fleur-de-lis, Crescent moon water-meter covers) and other post storm sentiments are rendered in silver and vibrant cast glass.
5430 Magazine St.
504/897-3389

Uptown Streetcar
Celebrate autumn in NOLA with a ride on the historic St. Charles streetcar line. Running from downtown’s Canal Street, the line follows a broad arc through the picturesque Garden District, past Uptown’s Audubon Park, and straight to the entrance of Tulane University (home of the Newcomb Art Gallery, with work by Shirin Neshat on view).
St. Charles and Canal Sts.

Vaughn's Lounge
A beloved Thursday night standing gig is known worldwide as “Kermit at Vaughn’s”—a nod to trumpeter Kermit Ruffins, who packs the tiny Bywater corner bar whenever he’s in town. Round about midnight, the low-ceilinged barroom fills with a stellar brass band (Kermit or a list of worthy substitutes) and sweaty dancers with no sense of the morning after. If Mr. Ruffins is playin’, he’s literally cookin’—serving Creole rice and beans between the first and second sets.
800 Lesseps St.
504/947-5562