The legendary Grand Canal has
beckoned travelers for centuries
with its intricate palazzos and the
fresh Adriatic seafood served at
the restaurants lining its banks.
Every two years, the art cognoscenti
descends on its mysterious
and narrow alleyways to feast on
the diverse offerings of the world’s
most famous biennial, now in its
53rd edition. Here’s the latest on
hotels, restaurants, museums and
shops worth seeking out, on foot
or via vaporetto.
Go:
THE 53RD ANNUAL
BIENNALE DI VENEZIA
WHAT: Seventy-seven
countries present
pavilions devoted to
artists of their choice in
an event that is the
closest thing the art
world has to the
Olympics. Although
there are no gold
medals, there are
Golden Lions — prizes
awarded for best in
show. This year’s Lions
for lifetime achievement
go to Yoko Ono and
John Baldessari.
WHEN: June 7 to
November 22
WHERE: The Arsenale
and the Giardini, among
other locations.
HIGHLIGHTS: Geoff Dyer,
whose recently published
novel Jeff in Venice,
Death in Varanasi follows
a journalist at the event,
praises the Biennale for
its diversity. “You see an
amazing quantity of art
in a short period of time
and in a limited amount
of space,” he says. This
edition hosts more
countries than ever, with
debut pavilions from
Gabon, Monaco,
Montenegro, Pakistan
and the United Arab
Emirates.
• The US
showcases its beloved
provocateur Bruce
Nauman in a 40-year
retrospective that also
introduces the artist’s
new sound installation.
• In an odd twist,
Germany will feature the
Brit Liam Gillick, who is
known for his colorful
Plexiglas sculpture. • At
the Arsenale, Venice’s
massive former shipyard,
and also at the former
Italy Pavilion, in Venice’s
Giardini park, you’ll find
the main exhibition,
“Making Worlds.” Daniel
Birnbaum,
this year’s
Biennale director, is
most excited about
Garden of the Virgins,
a part of the show that
joins playful installations
by the American artist
and filmmaker Miranda
July and the Italian
sculptor Lara Favaretto,
among others. “It will be
impossible not to love
this place,” Birnbaum
says. • One million
Venice-themed postcards
designed by Polish
artist Aleksandra
Mir will
be distributed for free.
Stay:
HOTEL GRITTI PALACE
The Gritti represents the peak of old-world elegance. "It’s got a great staff and lots of elegance," says Larry Lovett, the chairman of the historical preservation group Venetian Heritage. Fine fabrics and antiques adorn this 16th-century palazzo, and breakfast on the hotel’s Grand Canal terrace is a joy.
Santa Maria del Giglio 2467
39-041/794-611
RATES: $690-$1,200
gritti.hotelinvenice.com
HOTEL CIPRIANI
Located on the island of Giudecca, only a stone’s throw from the rest of Venice but retaining just enough stand-offish hauteur, is this popular playground for art world luminaries like Christie’s owner François Pinault as well as celebrities like Tom Hanks. Sumptuous rooms and a pool with a lagoon view complete the picture.
Giudecca 10
39-041/520-7744
RATES: $1,200-$9,000
hotelcipriani.com
HOTEL BAUER IL PALAZZO
Owner Francesca Bortolotto Possati, a board member of Save Venice, has created an intimate lodging on the Grand Canal — attached to the larger and more modern Hotel Bauer — with suites of unsurpassed opulence.
San Marco 1413/d
39-041/520-7022
RATES: $700-$2,050
ilpalazzovenezia.com
HOTEL DANIELI
"This place has a wonderful medieval feeling, a great roof terrace, and it’s close to the Arsenale," says Michael Hue-Williams, of London’s Albion Gallery. Even if you don’t stay, you should stop by to gawk at the fantastic Gothic-Moorish lobby, original to the 14th-century Palazzo Dandolo.
Riva degli Schiavoni 4196
39-041/522-6480
RATES: $660-$3,200
danieli.hotelinvenice.com
CHARMING HOUSE DD724
This tiny hotel, named for its address, is a clean-lined contemporary option. "None of that fussy and oppressive traditional Venetian decor," says Dyer. Some of the rooms look onto the serene garden of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
Dorsoduro 724
39-041/277-0262
RATES: $420-$740
thecharminghouse.com