Au Violon
Basel veterans like
Paul Gray, a director at the
Richard Gray Gallery of Chicago and New York, prefer this 12-room guesthouse, which was originally a Gothic monastery and later a prison. Ten years ago, the building was turned into a jazz club and musical-instrument museum — hence its name. Keller also recommends it. "It’s very spartan, but it has everything you need," he says.
Im Lohnhof 4
41-61/269 87 11
Rates: $150-$160
www.au-violon.com
Eat:
Restaurant Kunsthalle Basel AG
The lively art displayed in the austere dining room and the consistency of the hearty dishes — grilled sea bass for two, rib-eye steak with rosemary — are big draws at this hot spot. But ultimately, it’s the crowd. "Everyone is there," says local gallery owner and fair exhibitor Stefan von Bartha. A nightcap at the adjoining Campari Bar may also be in order, since the fair is hosting DJ’ed parties there every night from June 9 to 14. "It’s the default location at 11 or midnight," says Thornton.
Steinenberg, 7
41-61/272-4233
restaurant-kunsthalle.ch
Restaurant Stucki Bruderholz
In this spacious, tastefully modern setting, the acclaimed Swiss chef and cookbook author Tanja Grandits serves up dishes like duck confit and foie gras ravioli with cinnamon blossom leek cream. Oenophiles will be delighted by the restaurant’s deep wine list, currently 600 selections strong.
Bruderholzallee, 42
41-61/361-8222
www.stuckibasel.ch
Lily’s Stomach Supply
The idiosyncratic name of this trendy Asian fusion spot gets right to the point. It’s the savvy and utilitarian choice for midday cuisine, as its steamy bowls of noodles are served up quickly, not to mention in close proximity to the action at the fair. "The kitchen is very fast, so lots of exhibitors prefer it," says von Bartha.
Rebgasse 1
41-61/683-1111
lilys.ch
Chez Donati
Once frequented by the likes of Jean Tinguely and Andy Warhol, Chez Donati is still a favorite among the art world glitterati. "I’m a creature of habit," says Cheim & Read’s Sheffer. "You’ll find me there every night." He recommends the île flotantte dessert after a day at the fair.
Johanns-Vorstadt 48
41-61/322 09 19
www.lestroisrois.com
See:
Kunstmuseum & Schaulager
For a tiny city, Basel has the most outstanding museums," says Rubell. Among the city’s oldest institutions is the Kunstmuseum Basel (St. Alban-Graben 16; 41-61/206-6262). At the tail end of April, it unveiled a 70-work survey of van Gogh’s landscapes. The museum is also lending about 250 paintings, from the 15th century to the present, to another of Basel’s must-see art venues: the Schaulager (Ruchfeldstr. 19; 41-61/335-3232), where "Holbein to Tillmans" will be on view through October 4. Thornton calls the curation at the venerable museum "impeccable."
Fondation Beyeler
A few days before the fair, the Fondation unveiled a gigantic Giacometti retrospective that covers the artist’s oeuvre from beginning to end. "We actually start before he was born," says Keller, explaining that the show opens with works by Giacometti’s father, Diego, who was a well-known painter. Keller adds that the Fondation is also hosting shows of African, Oceanic and modern art and a special exhibition featuring some never-before-seen works by the Austrian sculptor Franz West.
Baselstr. 101
41-61/645-9700
beyeler.com
Vitra Design Museum
Since May 16, Vitra — located across the border, in Germany, but only a 10-minute drive from the Beyeler — has been presenting a survey of work by the brothers Fernando and Humberto Campana. The Campanas’ colorful stuffed-animal chairs and woven chaise longues are housed in the museum’s main hall — the first building Frank Gehry completed in Europe.
Charles-Eames-Str., 1
Weil am Rhein, Germany
49-7621/702-3200
design-museum.de
Theater Basel
Artists such as Doug Aitken, Olafur Eliasson and Pierre Huyghe will take the stage at the Theater Basel in "Il Tempo del Postino," a group show that unfolds over three nights beginning June 10. Directed by an all-star curatorial team that includes the ubiquitous Hans Ulrich Obrist and art star Rirkrit Tiravanija, the show offers its participants their 15 minutes of fame — literally. The time-restricted performances may even involve audience participation.
Elisabethenstr. 16
41-61/295-1133
www.artbasel.com/il-tempo-del-postino