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When in... Brussels

By Jeni Tu

Published: June 2, 2009
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Courtesy Hotel Amigo
Snowy, a star of native son Hergé's Tintin comic, makes an appearance at the Hotel Amigo

Friture René
If you’re looking for a hidden gem that’s off the beaten path, look no further than this neighborhood restaurant, which serves Belgium’s famous moules frites as well as raw mussels and all manner of fresh seafood. “It’s very homey and relaxed, definitely a place for local people,” says Alisa Grifo, a former Brussels resident who owns Kiosk, a cultish design shop/gallery in New York City.
Place de la Resistance
14 32-2/523-28-76

Cantillon Brewery

In a city known for its beer, you’ll find no shortage of watering holes. But a visit to the Cantillon Brewery offers visitors the chance to do more than just tipple: Year-round tours illustrate how the brewery uses a century-old fermentation method to produce varieties of the distinctively Belgian beer known as lambic, including grueuze and faro.
56 Rue Gheude
32-2/521-49-28
cantillon.be

See:

Wiels Contemporary Art Center
Opened just last year in a former brewery, Wiels has fast established itself as a must-see art destination. On view now through the end of summer is Luc Tuyman’s first solo show in Brussels, featuring 20 paintings he created specifically for the art center. Exhibitions of work by Ann Veronica Janssens and Andro Wekua are on tap for fall.
Avenue van Volxemlaan 354
32-2/340-00-50
wiels.org

Horta Museum

Architecture buffs should make time to see the townhouse Victor Horta built for himself in the Saint-Gilles neighborhood in the 1890s. Now a museum, the building is a spectacular example of Horta’s seductive Art Nouveau style, from the curved glass skylight over the main staircase to the filigreed balustrades, light fixtures, and door handles.
25 Rue Américaine
32-2/543-04-90
hortamuseum.be

Belgian Center for Comic Strip Art
Housed in a light-filled former department store designed by Horta, this one-of-a-kind museum celebrates the history of cartoons — and Belgians’ ageless fascination with them. Both special and permanent exhibitions pay homage to such cherished comic book figures as Charlie Brown, Superman and, of course, Belgium’s own Tintin and the Smurfs.
Rue des Sables 20
32-2/219-19-80
comicscenter.net

Kaaitheater

After a day of gallery hopping and sightseeing, head to the Kaaitheater for a dose of top-notch theater, dance, music, or performance art from Belgium and abroad. “They always have a good schedule of performers,” says Grifo.
Sainctelettesquare 19
32-2/201-59-59
kaaitheater.be

Contemporary art galleries
• Just off the tony Boulevard de Waterloo, Gladstone’s gallery recently opened a show of L.A.-based artist Dave Muller’s work, following exhibitions by Fausto Melotti and Roe Ethridge (12 Rue du Grand Cerf; 32-2/513-35-31; gladstonegallery.com). • Rech is celebrating the opening of the Musée Magritte with a show titled “Magritte and Light,” featuring work by contemporary artists such as John Baldessari, Mike Kelley, Joseph Kosuth, and Ugo Rondinone, who display an “affinity” for the Belgian surrealist master (Rue de Praetere 14; 32-2/648-56-84; galeriealminerech.com). • Don’t miss the gallery of Xavier Hufkens, a longtime fixture on the Belgian art scene; he’s showing paintings by New York artist George Condo (6-8 Rue Saint-Georges; 32-2/639-67-30; xavierhufkens.com). • For a helpful listing of other contemporary galleries, check out neca.be.

See:

Natan XIII
For unique jewelry, handbags, and home accessories, Rech’s pick is style maven Thierry Struvay’s high-concept shop, Natan XIII. The exclusive wares include “the most refined perfumed candles” by the famed Maison Cire de Trudon, Delvaux handbags, and vintage library ladders from the Comédie Française de Paris.
101 Rue Antoine Dansaert
32-2/514-15-17

Wittamer
Chocolate lovers have their choice of purveyors in Brussels — notably, Neuhaus and Pierre Marcolini — but Grifo prefers the exquisite creations at Wittamer. Visit the company’s elegant shop and adjacent café to sample sumptuous pastries, ice cream, and hot chocolate. Or do as Grifo does: “I order once a year during Christmas, wherever we are.” Right now, look for limited-edition Magritte-themed confections.
12 Place du Grand Sablon
32-2/512-37-42
wittamer.com

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