BRUSSELS— Brussels used to spark about as much excitement among travelers as its namesake sprouts do among children. But not anymore. This once provincial capital has turned into a hip, cosmopolitan metropolis worthy of its status as the seat of the European Union. The city boasts a burgeoning community of artists, gallerists and collectors; fabulous antique shops; and flea markets — not to mention a robust culinary scene. Visitors are charmed by its rich, eclectic array of architecture, its ancient cobblestone streets, and the ease of getting around on its tram system. Says New York dealer Barbara Gladstone, who opened the newest branch of her gallery in a restored 19th-century townhouse on Rue de Grand Cerf last fall, “It’s a very livable city.”

Go:

Musée Magritte
WHAT: The world’s largest museum devoted to the works of René Magritte
WHEN: Opening June 2
WHERE: The Place Royale
HIGHLIGHTS: All of Brussels seems set to celebrate the opening of this major new museum, with many hotels, retailers, and other establishments offering special Magritte-themed deals, events, or merchandise. Housed in a grand former hotel on the Place Royale, the museum boasts a collection of 250 artworks, including masterpieces like The Empire of Lights (1954), and archival materials — as well as state-of-the-art green technology.

Hergé Museum
WHAT: A new museum dedicated to the work of Belgian comic book artist Hergé
WHEN: Opening June 2
WHERE: Louvain-La-Neuvre
HIGHLIGHTS: Magritte isn’t the only Belgian artist being feted this month. On June 2, a new museum devoted to fellow Brussels native Hergé — best known as the creator of the comic strip The Adventures of Tintin, featuring the young reporter Tintin and his dog, Snowy — will open its doors 20 miles east of the capital. Designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Christian de Portzamparc, the three-story museum sports windows that cleverly resemble comic strip panels and showcases a treasure trove of Hergé’s original works.

Stay:

Hotel Amigo
One of renowned hotelier Rocco Forte’s posh properties, the Hotel Amigo is widely considered the best in the city. Locally sourced furniture, linens, and art lend Flemish flavor to the sleek, contemporary interiors. Even the spacious marble bathrooms are decorated with prints of Tintin.
100 Rue de l’Amigo
32-2/547-47-47
Rates: $880–$6,380
hotelamigo.com

be Manos
Design-savvy travelers might want to book a room at this stylish, new boutique hotel, whose eye-catching decor includes gigantic glass-baubled chandeliers. For relaxation, check out the wellness center, which offers a sauna, hammam (bathhouse), and massage services.
23 Square de l’Aviation 23–27
32-2/520-65-65
Rates: $490–$825
bemanos.com

Sofitel Brussels Le Louise
Another of Brussels’s top hotels, this Sofitel is conveniently located close to the luxury–shopping thoroughfare of Avenue Louise, home to countless high-end boutiques. A full renovation in 2008 has yielded contemporary touches like the spectacular “lace” Corian wall in the lobby.
40 Avenue de la Toison d’Or
32-2/514-22-00
Rates: $185–$2,125
sofitel.com

Thewhitehotel
For real minimalists, this quirky yet serene hotel might be just the place to stay. True to the name, all rooms are sparsely furnished in all white, each containing one carefully selected piece by a young Belgian designer or artist, available for purchase. “It’s a sweet little place,” says Gladstone.
Avenue Louise 212
32-2/644-29-29
Rates: $105–$255
thewhitehotel.be

Eat & Drink:

Au Vieux Saint-Martin
This classic Belgian bistro serving traditional specialties is a favorite of Gladstone’s — and always packed. In particular, try the filet americain (raw, minced beef mixed with onions and spices).
Place du Grand Sablon 38
32-2/512-64-76

L’Ecailler du Palais Royal à Bruxelles
Bruxellois enjoy the elegantly old-fashioned ambience at this beloved French establishment in the upscale Sablon neighborhood, which, according to many, serves the city’s best seafood. “I love to order the salad with small Belgian shrimp and the lobster,” says dealer Almine Rech, who has galleries in both Paris and Brussels.
Rue Bodenbroek 18
32-2/512-87-51
lecaillerdupalaisroyal.be

Friture René
If you’re looking for a hidden gem that’s off the beaten path, look no further than this neighborhood restaurant, which serves Belgium’s famous moules frites as well as raw mussels and all manner of fresh seafood. “It’s very homey and relaxed, definitely a place for local people,” says Alisa Grifo, a former Brussels resident who owns Kiosk, a cultish design shop/gallery in New York City.
Place de la Resistance
14 32-2/523-28-76

Cantillon Brewery
In a city known for its beer, you’ll find no shortage of watering holes. But a visit to the Cantillon Brewery offers visitors the chance to do more than just tipple: Year-round tours illustrate how the brewery uses a century-old fermentation method to produce varieties of the distinctively Belgian beer known as lambic, including grueuze and faro.
56 Rue Gheude
32-2/521-49-28
cantillon.be

See:

Wiels Contemporary Art Center
Opened just last year in a former brewery, Wiels has fast established itself as a must-see art destination. On view now through the end of summer is Luc Tuyman’s first solo show in Brussels, featuring 20 paintings he created specifically for the art center. Exhibitions of work by Ann Veronica Janssens and Andro Wekua are on tap for fall.
Avenue van Volxemlaan 354
32-2/340-00-50
wiels.org

Horta Museum
Architecture buffs should make time to see the townhouse Victor Horta built for himself in the Saint-Gilles neighborhood in the 1890s. Now a museum, the building is a spectacular example of Horta’s seductive Art Nouveau style, from the curved glass skylight over the main staircase to the filigreed balustrades, light fixtures, and door handles.
25 Rue Américaine
32-2/543-04-90
hortamuseum.be

Belgian Center for Comic Strip Art
Housed in a light-filled former department store designed by Horta, this one-of-a-kind museum celebrates the history of cartoons — and Belgians’ ageless fascination with them. Both special and permanent exhibitions pay homage to such cherished comic book figures as Charlie Brown, Superman and, of course, Belgium’s own Tintin and the Smurfs.
Rue des Sables 20
32-2/219-19-80
comicscenter.net

Kaaitheater
After a day of gallery hopping and sightseeing, head to the Kaaitheater for a dose of top-notch theater, dance, music, or performance art from Belgium and abroad. “They always have a good schedule of performers,” says Grifo.
Sainctelettesquare 19
32-2/201-59-59
kaaitheater.be

Contemporary art galleries
• Just off the tony Boulevard de Waterloo, Gladstone’s gallery recently opened a show of L.A.-based artist Dave Muller’s work, following exhibitions by Fausto Melotti and Roe Ethridge (12 Rue du Grand Cerf; 32-2/513-35-31; gladstonegallery.com). • Rech is celebrating the opening of the Musée Magritte with a show titled “Magritte and Light,” featuring work by contemporary artists such as John Baldessari, Mike Kelley, Joseph Kosuth, and Ugo Rondinone, who display an “affinity” for the Belgian surrealist master (Rue de Praetere 14; 32-2/648-56-84; galeriealminerech.com). • Don’t miss the gallery of Xavier Hufkens, a longtime fixture on the Belgian art scene; he’s showing paintings by New York artist George Condo (6-8 Rue Saint-Georges; 32-2/639-67-30; xavierhufkens.com). • For a helpful listing of other contemporary galleries, check out neca.be.

See:

Natan XIII
For unique jewelry, handbags, and home accessories, Rech’s pick is style maven Thierry Struvay’s high-concept shop, Natan XIII. The exclusive wares include “the most refined perfumed candles” by the famed Maison Cire de Trudon, Delvaux handbags, and vintage library ladders from the Comédie Française de Paris.
101 Rue Antoine Dansaert
32-2/514-15-17

Wittamer
Chocolate lovers have their choice of purveyors in Brussels — notably, Neuhaus and Pierre Marcolini — but Grifo prefers the exquisite creations at Wittamer. Visit the company’s elegant shop and adjacent café to sample sumptuous pastries, ice cream, and hot chocolate. Or do as Grifo does: “I order once a year during Christmas, wherever we are.” Right now, look for limited-edition Magritte-themed confections.
12 Place du Grand Sablon
32-2/512-37-42
wittamer.com

Louise Fifty Four
Brussels’s chicest women make regular visits to this boutique, a standout on Avenue Louise. Rech lauds the “perfect selection” of such designer labels as Marni, Yves Saint Laurent, Chloe, Balenciaga, and Azzedine Alaïa, handpicked by owner Alain Dzialowski.
Avenue Louise 54
32-2/511-62-43

Antique shopping
Brussels is the place to go for “great vintage finds,” says Grifo, particularly at the Place du Jeu de Balle flea market, located in the working-class but increasingly gentrified Marolles area. Browse the stalls daily from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., then wander around the antiques shops on the surrounding Rue Blaes and Rue Haute. • In the Sablon, just a few minutes away, check out Emery & Cie, which gets raves for its vast, eclectic mix of artisanal furniture, house wares, wallpaper, and tiles (27 Rue de l’Hopital; 32-2/513-58-92; emeryetcie.com). • Nearby, Philippe Lange sells a meticulously curated selection of 20th-century furniture, decorative objects, and African art (2A Place de la Justice; 32-2/503-46-18; philippelange.be). • Closer to the Grand Place, decorators and design aficionados alike flock to Michel Lambrecht’s store for antique furniture and art, as well as the light fixtures he fashions out of architectural salvage (Rue Watteeustraat 18; 32-2/502-27-29; michellambrecht.be).