Once known as a strictly for-business city, Abu Dhabi is campaigning hard to become a premier destination for luxury-class nomads and culturati. While the much-ballyhooed desert outposts of the Louvre and Guggenheim won’t be open until 2013, the emirate offers plenty of other attractions to lure worldly visitors, even in the blazing heat of summer. They range from a spate of luxury resorts to a sneak peak at the Louvre Abu Dhabis collection, on view at the Emirates Palace Hotel.

Go:

Talking Art: Louvre Abu Dhabi
WHAT: A preview of the “first universal museum in the Middle East,” “Talking Art” features 29 of the Louvre Abu Dhabi’s newest acquisitions and loans. Organized by curators from the Agence France-Muséums, a coalition of 12 national French institutions dedicated to advising Abu Dhabi’s fledgling outpost, the exhibition reveals the scope of the museum’s vision, its bold curatorial style, and its serious acquisitions budget. For more information, visit artsabudhabi.com.
WHEN: Through August 29.
WHERE: The lobby, Emirates Palace Hotel.
HIGHLIGHTS: “Talking Art” displays works ranging from ancient relics, tapestry, and Chinese costume to such modern masterpieces as Mondrians 1922 Composition With Blue, Red, Yellow and Black, which was acquired from the already legendary Yves Saint Laurent sale at Christie’s in February. Afterward, head to an adjacent room for a mock tour of the Louvre’s future home on Saadiyat Island. Learn about the history of Saadiyat (“Island of Happiness”) and see its future through a display of architectural models of the five institutions that will make up its new cultural district, including Jean Nouvels Islamic-inspired design for the Louvre and Frank Gehrys Guggenheim.

Stay:

Emirates Palace
Emirates Palaceis to Abu Dhabi what the Plaza is to New York. “When I come to Abu Dhabi, I spend most of my time here,” says curator Anne Baldassari, who organized the Middle East’s first Picasso exhibit in Abu Dhabi last summer. Vida de Diego Arozamena, managing partner of the new Acento Gallery (the only gallery in the emirate to focus on artists from Mexico and Spain), comes “just to admire its splendor.” De Diego Arozamena also recommends “the great restaurant and nightclub Etoile, which is owned by a friend of mine.” Spend a day at the Anantara Spa, where you can treat yourself to aromatic massages and hammam rituals.
West End Corniche
971-2-690-9000
emiratespalace.com

Shangri-La
With its spectacular view of the sumptuous and baroque Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan Mosque (also known as the Grand Mosque) across the water, Shangri-La is aptly named. In terms of scale, it’s more manageable than Emirates Palace, but it’s no less indulgent. Venetian mirrors mix with traditional Arabic flourishes — like latticed archways, tiled mosaics, and heavy wood doors. Highlights include the five outdoor swimming pools, the CHI spa (where Far East treatments are the order of the day), and the restaurant Sofra bld with its killer buffet, where “they have the best Moroccan grill I’ve ever tasted,” says tour guide Michelle Sabti.
Sheikh Zayed Road
971-2-509-8888
shangri-la.com

Desert Islands
Located just off the Abu Dhabi coast on Sir Bani Yas Island, the Desert Islands resort will appeal to sybarites and adventure lovers alike. (It was once the personal eco retreat of the United Arab Emirates's late president, Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan.) “You arrive by seaplane, and everything is nature-based,” says Abu Dhabi native Hend Al Otaiba of the Tourist Development and Investment Co. “There are game drives, snorkeling, kayaking, and 4x4 guided tours of the park.”
Sir Bani Yas Island
971-2-801-5400
desertislands.anantara.com

Qasr Al Sarab
Tucked away in the emirate’s Empty Quarter — the largest uninterrupted expanse of sand in the world — Qasr Al Sarab is where you come if you really want to get away. Partake in otherworldly activities, like camel trekking, falconry, and sand surfing, or kick back in the world-class spa. Rooms, villas, and suites are available. Scheduled to open this September.
Empty Quarter
971-2-406-1701
quasralsarab.anantara.com

Eat & Drink:

Diwan L’Auberge and Anar, Emirates Palace
As with all the top-end hotels in Abu Dhabi, Emirates Palace isn’t just a hotel; it’s a restaurant destination (in Abu Dhabi, alcohol is served only at hotels). Curator Anne Baldassari admits she doesn’t have much free time when she comes to town, so she makes a beeline to Diwan L’Auberge for the impeccable Lebanese dishes. London-based exhibition designer Colin Morris loves Anar for the “sumptuous Persian fare.”
971 2 690 7999
emiratespalace.com

Fishmarket, Chamas, and the Yacht Club, Intercontinental Hotel
You’ll find two of Morris’s favorite haunts at the Intercontinental Hotel. “Fishmarket is of particular note to me. To eat freshly grilled or poached fish by the water’s edge in a tranquil environment is pretty heavenly,” he says. “In stark contrast to that, though, is Chamas, which serves a somewhat heavier Brazilian, churrascaria feast in a very lively atmosphere — a great place for a celebration.” Rebecca Barakat, manager of the Barakat Gallery in Emirates Palace, recommends the trendy Yacht Club for its cool design and fabulous sunset views.
971-2-666-6888
ichotelsgroup.com

Vasco’s and Al Mawal, Hilton Abu Dhabi
Everyone loves Vasco’s, especially for its al fresco dining. “Head down here for a faultless dinner on the water and then across the road to the Jazz Bar — one of the oldest live-music venues in the city and still a great night out,” raves Ruth Burrows, owner of Abu Dhabi’s Hemisphere Gallery. The menu features a combination of Mediterranean and Indian dishes. At Al Mawal, never mind the “grotto” decor, says gallerist de Diego Arozamena, who recommends this restaurant-cum-nightclub for its tasty Lebanese food and late-night entertainment, including live music and belly dancing. Don’t come before 10.
971-2-681-190
hilton.com

Off the beaten track: Ramadan special
According to de Diego Arozamena, if you happen to be in Abu Dhabi during Ramadan you can still expect to find fantastic meals. “During Ramadan, which this year starts around the 20th of August, food is only served from sunrise to sunset behind curtained-off areas of the hotels. During this time, it is a great experience to go for iftar (the fast-breaking meal of the day) in the tents set up around the city and share the local tradition.”

See:

Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation
The heart of the city’s art scene, the Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation hosts exhibitions and events all year round. “There are numerous places … which demonstrate how diverse Abu Dhabi can be,” Morris explains. “The Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation on Old Airport Road is one of these. It has various art-related activities, a renowned library, a cinema complex, and a peaceful courtyard setting.”
Old Airport Road
917-2-621-5300
uaeinteract.com, cultural@emirates.org.ae

Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan Mosque
For Morris, the Grand Mosque is “a truly lasting memorial to a leader who was so revered by his people. It is hard to miss the splendor of the Mosque, with its imposing white marble presence, as you drive from the airport. It is a ‘must visit’ no matter your length of stay.” Open to non-Muslims. Call ahead for a free guided tour.
971-02-444-0444
or email, zayedmosque@adta.ae

The Corniche
“When the weather cools down — from October onward — explore the parks, public gardens, and the wonderful Corniche. Beautiful, lush greenery, flowers, and date palms in the middle of a desert island city — what more do you need?” Hemisphere Gallery’s Ruth Burrows asks. You can also rent a bike and ride along the waterfront path, enjoy al fresco dining, and go to the private beach (as opposed to the public ones) at a minimum charge.

Hemisphere Gallery
A permanent collection of works by local Abu Dhabi artists is not the only reason to visit Hemisphere. “We are off the beaten track on the middle of a block, next door to the Russian Embassy, as opposed to on one of the main streets, where there’s a real ‘mall culture,’ ” owner Ruth Burrows explains. “I’m always encouraging people to venture into these lesser-known backstreets, where you can find everything: printers, tailors, jewelry, carpentry, fabric to die for, groceries, bakery, cinema, stationery, and every type of restaurant you can imagine. Ever tried really good biryani from a Pakistani restaurant?”
Off Khalifa Street, between the Bavaria Coffee shop and Eastern Jewelers.
971-2-676-8614
hemisphere.ae

Heritage Village
Lamees Al Baziri recommends a visit to Heritage Village, which seems worlds away from modern Abu Dhabi. With a museum and a reconstructed Bedouin camp, this slightly ramshackle facility near the posh, waterfront Breakwater district offers a fascinating glimpse into Abu Dhabi’s modest traditions and a poignant contrast to the much glitzier life there today. Open daily, 9 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–9 p.m.

Salwa Zeidan Gallery
This newly opened gallery, directed by Lebanese artist Salwa Zeidan, features contemporary photography, sculpture, painting, and performance art by Middle Eastern and international artists. Check out their contemporary Egyptian art exhibit this fall.
Villa 256, second floor, Al Khaleej Al Arabi Street
971-2-666-9656.
salwazeidangallery.com

The Islands:
Lamees Al Baziri, director of Al Qibab Gallery, urges visitors to enjoy Abu Dhabi’s “lovely offshore” life. “We have islands to visit that are reminiscent of the Caribbean, with white sands and palm trees.” Gallerist de Diego Arozamena adds, “On weekends, Jet Skiing and boating are popular pastimes with parties on the island beaches.”

Dhow Harbor
“I enjoy seeing Dhow Harbor near Port Zayed,” Colin Morris says. Referring to the traditional boats used by Abu Dhabi fisherman, he adds, “The Dhow’s straightforward design has always demonstrated an intrinsic simplicity and elegance, and yet to see them in a working environment gives them a different edge. They truly are a versatile craft and the workhorse of the region.” Near Port Zayed, on the northeastern tip of Abu Dhabi.

Day Trip to Al Ain:
Surrounded by wind-sculpted sand dunes, Al Ain, the “Garden City of the Gulf,” is well worth the hour-and-a-half drive, says Sharon Ruebsteck, a representative of the Louvre Abu Dhabi development team, who also recommends the city's “very nice zoo.” Go witness a camel race, explore the profusion of old forts, visit the Al Ain National Museum, or watch the sun rise over neighboring Jebel Hafeet, one of the tallest mountains in the Emirates, from a hot air balloon. Camel racing, Al Malagit Race Track, 971-2-583-9200. Balloon Adventures Dubai, 971-4-285-4949.For information on upcoming exhibitions and events throughout the city, visit adach.ae and artsabudhabi.ae.

Shop:

Souks
For a more traditional Arabian experience, explore the souks (or markets). You’ll find goods imported from all over the Middle East, like carpets, incense, silver and brass coffee sets, spices, and hand-painted pottery. Visit the new souk at Qaryat Al Beri, near the Shangri-La hotel, with its just-budding scene of fantastic restaurants (like Ushna), shopping, and music. “My daughter loves the fish souk,” Ruebsteck says. “They’ll filet it and prepare it right there for you.” For great textiles, de Diego Arozamena hits “the area behind the Marks & Spencer building.” It’s famous for its large selection of inexpensive fabrics and tailors.
Marks & Spencer, Fetouh Al Khair Center
971-2-621-3646