DELHI, India—This city is a booming cultural center that coexists in the present and the past. The current city is the eighth that has been built on this site since the 8th century, and some believe that the earliest was actually created in 2,500 B.C. The present New Delhi, a discrete city located within the larger metropolis, was declared the capital of the British colony of India in 1911, replacing Calcutta, and has remained the capital of independent India as well.

But for its millennia-long history, Delhi is a very contemporary city as well, with malls, lounges, and swanky dining areas, as well as a telecommunication revolution evidenced by the Internet cafes that have popped up in even relatively impoverished neighborhoods. It’s also bursting at the seams with people — some 16 million of them (and it’s only India’s second-largest city, after Mumbai), a mix of Indians who’ve come for work and a growing international population, in addition to the traditional diplomats. When in Delhi, be sure to take advantage of the range of experiences the city has to offer, from heritage sites to hip cafés to the feast of sights and sounds that enliven the storied streets.

Go:

India Art Summit
WHERE: At the ITPO, Pragati Maidan, Delhi. Ask to be taken to Pragati Maidan from the Mathura Road side.
WHEN: August 19 to 22, 2009
HIGHLIGHTS: This is the opportunity for anyone interested in Indian art to get a good sense of the range of practices, learn about local galleries (55 of them are represented here), and, for a fee of $175, hear some of contemporary Indian art’s best-known scholars and practitioners share their ideas in a seminar spread over two and a half days. As India’s art scene is concentrated in Delhi and Mumbai (with a smaller center in Bangalore), it’s unlikely you’ll ever see such a wide sampling of work under one roof without having to travel throughout the country. The summit is also an opportunity to see the works of artists who seldom show, such as Subba Ghosh, who is known for his unique vocabulary derived from popular culture but has shown only once in the last decade. If you are interested in buying Indian art, this is also a good opportunity to survey the range of individual artists and prices. Most galleries are unsure about sales this year but are convinced about the value of interacting with potential clients. Still, there are good bargains, such as those offered by New York–based Indian contemporary-art gallery, Aicon, all priced at under $2,000.

Humayun’s Tomb
WHAT: A precursor of the Taj Mahal, this mausoleum was built in 1570 on the site where the Mughal emperor Humayun, an avid astronomer, is believed to have fallen and died after an evening of stargazing.
WHERE: In New Delhi, close to the economically diverse Nizamuddin neighborhood, which is named after a Sufi saint buried nearby. Take a taxi and keep it waiting while you look around. Budget for an hour here.
HIGHLIGHTS: Note the geometrical green lawns, an intrinsic part of this building and all high Mughal architecture, as well as the red sandstone.

Delhi Heritage Walk
WHAT: Delhi is full of historic areas, but they can be hard to see and understand. Instead, see Old Delhi with the Itihaas Trust, which conducts small, personalized tours of the old city.
WHERE: The trust meets attendees near the area to be explored; contact Itihaas for more information.
WHEN: The next walk is on September 22, at 6 p.m., at the Turkman Gate area. Contact Mohsin at +91-11-23320547 or e-mail itihaasw@gmail.com for other information and inquiries. The walks are not scheduled with any regularity, but you can call to request a walk with advance notice, or to learn about the next walk.
HIGHLIGHTS: The Turkman Gate, built in the mid-17th century, is one of the most densely populated areas of Delhi. Here, you can still see horse-pulled tongas and old family-owned businesses.

National Museum
WHAT: The National Museum is a government-run treasure-house. It may not be the best-maintained or the slickest institution you’ve visited, but it contains some of the greatest artifacts from all over India, dating from antiquity to the 19th century.
WHERE: At Janpath Road
HIGHLIGHTS: The artifacts from one of the world’s oldest civilizations, in the Indus Valley, are outstanding in their intricacy and sheer aesthetics, and are especially stunning if you are not already familiar with the history of the time. The collection is remarkable for its famous seals and terra cottas, but it surprises with objects like weights and measures, used even in those ancient times. Don’t leave without also seeing the exquisite Indian miniature paintings and the dramatic jewelry collection.


Stay: