Even after the art market crash, the dollar’s slide and nonstop upheaval around the globe, Paris continues to be a place of creation and an aesthetic watering hole par excellence. Which is why on a calendar chockablock with art fairs, FIAC remains "le must."

Go:

FIAC
WHAT: The International Contemporary Art Fair
WHEN: October 22-25
WHERE: The event’s 36th edition draws 196 galleries hailing from more than 21 countries. A staggering amount of newcomers — 60 total — make their FIAC debut. • "Le Projet Moderne" promises excitement, with dealers like Gagosian, Acquavella, PaceWildenstein, and Louis Carré exhibiting modern masterworks of museum quality in the center of the Grand Palais. • FIAC’S design section is back after a short hiatus, and will include six dealers showcasing works on the ground floor. • This year marks the debut of the Prix Lafayette, an emerging-artist competition sponsored by the famed department store Galeries Lafayette. • Once again, the Tuileries Gardens play host to contemporary in situ projects, such as Ugo Rondinone’s Sunrise East. • Spirits are very high among dealers this year: "While most fair weeks leave you feeling drained, FIAC week is a pleasure and I always leave feeling I need one more day," says London art dealer and director of Art Dubai John Martin. "The Grand Palais is easy to get to without spending an hour in the metro or stuck in a traffic jam," adds Serge Le Borgne, the Paris gallerist. Roland Augustine, partner in the New York-based Luhring-Augustine Gallery, will be showing a number of seminal works by the British artist Rachel Whiteread. "It’s an extraordinary venue, like the Armory Show in New York, and the building is such an architectural jewel," he says.

Stay:

Mama Shelter
Serge Le Borgne, whose gallery is located in the well-heeled art stomping ground of the Marais, sends artists and collectors to stay at this former multistory car park, "because it’s out of the so-called%C2%A0fashion system in Paris." The 172-room hotel, designed by Philippe Starck in 2008, is also a favorite of John Martin. He loves the in-room iMac computers which also serve as TVs and DVD players and the outdoor eating area. It’s located in the bustling 20th arrondisement in the northeast of Paris, so expect to find hidden spice and food markets and cultures of every sort. This is a Paris one rarely sees.
109 Rue de Bagnolet
33-1/43-48-48-48
Rates: $197-$285
mamashelter.com

Hotel du Petit Moulin
In 2006, Christian Lacroix lavished the digs of one of the oldest bakeries in the Marais with his signature bright colors and flair. Dating back to 1615, the 17-room hotel is now home to such touches as faux-book-lined wallpaper that makes the lounge resemble a library; dramatic red-tiled bathrooms with heart-shaped mirrors; and bold, eclectic patterned fabrics. Each room is created in a different style, such as Baroque, Scandinavian and ’60s.
29/31 Rue du Poitou
33-1/42-74-10-10
Rates: $272-$500
paris-hotel-petitmoulin.com

Hotel Louisiane
This historic inn was once a boarding house where both Jean-Paul Sartre (room 10) and Simone de Beauvoir (room 68) resided and a home away from home for Miles Davis and John Coltrane. Today it’s the lodging that gb agency’s Solène Guillier recommends to visitors since it’s a short walk to the Louvre and centrally located. With 80 charming rooms, the hotel maintains its ’50s decor and is only a few steps from the groovy Bar du Marché.
60 Rue de Seine
33-1/44-32-17-17
Rates: $142-$200
hotel-lalouisiane.com

Hotel Raphael
This hotel is close to the Grand Palais in both location and splendor. Its unique Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture, wood-paneled walkways and one-of-a-kind views of the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower make it the choice for those who appreciate Paris’s old-world sights.
17 Avenue Kléber
33-1/53-64-32-00
Rates: $720-$8,864
raphael-hotel.com

Eat:

L’ami Louis
This 1930s eatery is famous for its traditional brasserie-style food. Marble-topped tables provide an easy, old-time atmosphere. Milk-fed lamb and confit du canard are house specialties, so too is grilled veal kidneys. "I’m Italian, so I like to eat," says Roland Augustine, who frequents the restaurant, as do many fashionistas. "Paris is like Rome, you have to work to find a bad meal."
32 Rue du Vertbois
33-1/48-87-77-48