TURIN— It may be the most progressive of Italian cities, with a profusion of galleries and public sculptures that demonstrate its commitment to modern art, but Turin boasts a historic core that abounds in baroque churches, palaces, and cobbled squares. Once compared to Detroit for its concentration of automobile factories, it has distinguished itself in recent years by gracefully transitioning into the post-industrial era — a development achieved in part by drawing on its strong cultural roots. Artissima, a joint creation of local authorities and museums now celebrating its 16th year, is one such effort.

Go:

Artissima 16: International Fair of Contemporary Art
What: Artissima “has the reputation of being a ‘sleeper’ fair where you can make discoveries and interact with people in a productive environment,” says New York dealer Miguel Abreu. Says director Andrea Bellini: “Our aim was to make it a leading event of great cultural interest, not the same old art supermarket.” To that end, he and his curators have pared down the list of participants “so that the fair is small and people don’t get stressed out.” For this year, the program of related events has been given a fresh focus: a five-day, citywide celebration of the relationship between the visual arts and theater entitled “Blinding the Ears.” Leading international artists will present their work at the Teatro Reggio (a masterpiece by maverick architect Carlo Mollino) and four other playhouses.
When: November 6–8, 2009
Where: Lingotto Fiere, Turin
Highlights: One special treat of this fair is that it takes place in Lingotto, the former Fiat factory, famous for its rooftop test track, and in Renzo Piano’s elevated gallery for the Agnelli art collection. More than a hundred international galleries of contemporary art will participate in the Main Section and New Entries — a category reserved for newly established avant-garde galleries. The Present Future section will feature 18 emerging artists, chosen by a committee of curators, and large-format works will be grouped beside the entrance under the banner Constellations. Among the participating dealers are New York’s Simone Bortolami, Friedrich Petzel, Andrew Kreps, and Elizabeth Dee; London’s Alison Jacques and Kate MacGarry; Berlin’s Barbara Weiss and Martin Klosterfelde, and Milan’s Francesca Kaufmann, Raffaella Cortese, and Francesca Minini.

Stay:

Le Meridien Art + Tech
The fancier of two Meridien hotels, this is a sleek and sophisticated jewel designed by Renzo Piano as part of his transformation of Lingotto into a vibrant mixed-use complex. Its interiors are furnished with the very best of 20th-century design.
Via Nizza 262
39-011/ 664-2000
Rates: $310–$4,357
lemeridienturin.com

Principi di Piemonte
“It’s right in the center and very elegant,” says Simone Bortolami, who sends his collector friends to this classic 1930 hotel, known for its original furnishings and Murano glass mosaics in the lobby.
Via Gobetti 15
39-011/ 562-9693
Rates: $224–$977
principedipiemonte.com

Golden Palace
“A perfect place for a late-night rendezvous,” says Jessie Washburn-Harris of the Harris Lieberman Gallery. This new establishment, located near the historic core of Turin and a short taxi ride from the fair, offers a feast of brown marble, an atmospheric bar, and sybaritic guest rooms.
Via dell’Arcivescado 18
39-011/ 551-2111
Rates: $205–$335
goldenpalace.thi.it

Town House
Patrizia Sandretto, Turin’s leading collector of contemporary art, recommends this “sophisticated, centrally located boutique hotel for its luxurious interiors, attention to detail, and excellent service.”
Via XX Settembre 70
39-011/ 1970-0003
Rates: $166–$448
townhouse.it/th70/

Eat:

Al Gatto Nero
This timeless, comfortable, and friendly restaurant seems to top everyone’s list, so it’s best to reserve well in advance. Though Tuscan in origin, it’s a good place to indulge in the white truffles of Alba that are currently in season. “One of best meals of my life, and an incredible wine list” says Jessie Washburn-Harris.
Corso Turati 14
39-011/ 590 477