An Expression of Place

Far from the madding crowds, the din of vuvuzelas, and the historic goals of the 2010 World Cup, South Africa's wines and wineries have something to offer just about everyone. If you're lucky enough to be in Cape Town, consider a day trip to sample the vineyards dotting the countryside. Alternatively, if you're watching the soccer on TV, then sip a South African wine and root for Bafana Bafana, the national team.

The locals mostly drink hearty Cabernets and crisp Sauvignon Blancs, although South Africa is known for its two more geographically particular varietals, Chenin Blanc and Pinotage. While South Africa's wines have suffered from a reputation of being affordable quaffables, they are in fact much better than that. "To me the real excitement is atthe top end," says vintner Anthony Hamilton Russell, whose Pinot Noir is one of South Africa's higher-end offerings. "The best South African wines tell astory of place more than of grape variety. They not only have a rich and lengthy history behind them, but are created in some of the most beautiful and dramatic scenery in the world."

Thanks, Scurvy

South Africa's winemaking history dates back to the 1650s when the Dutch East India Company established a port at the Cape of Good Hope. Dutch traders noticed that the crews who plied the sea lanes of the wine-rich Mediterranean suffered less from scurvy, so some enterprising Dutch merchant traders began making wine. It was probably lousy, but fortunately along came the Huguenots — fleeing religious persecution in France — who knew how to make wine. Thus a South African industry was born.

Today, the most popular and well-known wine-producing regions are Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Both towns, as well as their winelands neighbors, offer a range of accommodation and good restaurants, like theaward-winning Le Quartier Francais in Franshoek, Aristata in Stellenbosch, Zomerlust in Paarl, and Pastis in Constantia. Many of the wineries also have fine restaurants, including Terroir at Kleine Zalze winery, Tokara, Boschendal, and Cuveeat Simonsig Estate. Many wineries also offer accommodation, such as De Trafford, L'Avenir, ConstantiaUitsig, and Spier.

By any measure, the South African wine industry is flourishing. Theirtop wines receive accolades around the world, and while South African wines aren't widely available in every country, they overtook France in volume sales in the U.K. earlier this year.

Chenin Blanc

Known in the region by the local name "Steen," Chenin Blanc is South Africa'ssignature white. It's the same grape that produces Vouvray in France, and the wines are crisp and tasty with hints of melon or peach.

Try: Sadie Family, Mulderbosch,Fairvalley, Ken Forrester, Raats

Pinotage

Pinotage is a blend of Pinot Noir and Cinsault grapes. This varietal newcomer was invented in 1925 by a Stellenbosch University professor. Some people like Pinotage. I think it tastes like unleaded gasoline mixed with grape juice. "Horse blanket" is sometimes used to describe its aroma. (Hey, Food & Wine magazine said it, notme).

Try: Charles Back, Kanonkop (or stick to other reds)

Syrah

Many of South Africa's best wines — and many good values — come from this spicy variety. De Trafford, Rudi Schulz, and Foundry are rich but balanced and compare favorably against more expensive Rhone and Australian Syrahs. Wine writer Donald Dibbern points out that South African winemakers produce both Old World and New World style wines. "If you are looking for a New World type of wine, search for Shiraz, as it is called in Australia. When producers choose to label it Syrah instead, it is often more akin to wines from the Northern Rhone in France."

Try: Boekenhoutskloof, De Trafford, Swartland Observatory, Mas Nicolas, Conde, Rudi Schultz, Anwilka, Foundry, Spier

Cabernet and Merlot

Rich, powerful reds are the favorite wine of most South Africans, perhaps because they go so well with steak and boerewors (think wurst), two of the country's gastronomic staples. Meerlust's Rubincon, De Toren's Fusion V,and Ernie Els are Bordeaux-style blends — more muscular than a Medoc, but with enough balance and grace that they won't overwhelm.

Try: Meerlust,Thelema, Stony Brook, La Motte, Kanonkop, Rustenberg, Rust en Vrede, De Toren

Sauvignon Blanc

South African Sauvignon Blancs are clean, crisp, and affordable. With fewer melon and fruit notes than New Zealand's offerings and more grassy, green-apple-tang than their Californian cousins. Best served cold on a hot day.

Try: Constantia Uitsig, Simonsig,Steenberg, Neil Ellis, Springfield, Elgin, Buitenverwachting

Pinot Noir

Near the southernmost point of Africa, Hamilton Russell and Bouchard Finlayson make fine pinot noirs, with a combination of fruit and depth. Both are consistent winners from John Platter, the Robert Parker of South African wine.

Try: Hamilton Russell, Bouchard Finlayson, Vriesenhof

Chardonnay and Viognier

"Exemplary and quite Burgundian," is how wine writer Jancis Robinson describes Glen Carlou's Quartz Stone Chardonnay. Rustenberg, Ataraxia, and others make Burgundy-style (meaning not overly oaked or buttery) Chardonnays. The Viognier varietal is still relatively new to the country. There are now several good South African Viogniers, but most are not available outside the country.

Try: Chamonix, Ataraxia, Glen Carlou, Rustenberg, Uva Mira, GlenWood, Groot Constantia, L'Avenir, Tokara

Sweet and Bubbly

The Cape wine regions produce refreshing, affordable sparkling wines — sometimes called Cap Classique — from Sauvignon blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir grapes. A few wineries even make a rose sparkling wine made from Pinotage. Klein Constantia's honeysuckle desert wine, Vin de Constance, recently scored 94 points from Wine Spectator.

Try: Graham Beck, Boschendal, Klein Constantia