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International Edition
May 20, 2012 Last Updated: 6:25:PM EDT

The Art of Autumnal Drinking: Wines and Walks in Napa Valley

The Art of Autumnal Drinking: Wines and Walks in Napa Valley

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by Anthony Schneider
Published: November 25, 2010

Jack London was happy there. It's home to a popular annual mustard festival. Robin Williams and Ray Manzarek live there, as do some of America's best wines and wineries. Napa and Sonoma are bursting with splendid vistas, wonderful restaurants, and breathtaking hiking, biking, and running trails. Fall is a great time to visit. The winemakers are taking a breather, the vines are a wash of gold, green, and brown, and the weather is fine. Grab a fleece (the mornings and evenings can be chilly) and a pair of comfy shoes, and get ready to explore. Many wineries have tasting rooms open to the public, while some are available by reservation only, so plan ahead, but don't plan too much. Serendipity is an important part of the sybaritic pleasures of Napa Valley.

TASTE

Visit old friends and make some new ones. There's no shortage of fine wines and friendly tasting rooms, mostly pouring 2007 wines, one of the best Napa vintages in many years. The region boasts the mother lode of rich American Cabernet Sauvignon. Dominus (a winery designed by architects Hertzog & De Meuron) and Screaming Eagle in Oakville are two of America's most famous Cabs. The 2007 offerings of Beringer Private Reserve and Hourglass Blueline are perennial Robert Parker favorites. Opus One, Chateau St. Jean's Cinq Cepages (a blend of five varietals), Pride Mountain Vineyards, and Sequoia Grove are balanced, complex, and rich American Cabs, among the many admirable wineries worth a tasting tour.

Duckhorn, meanwhile, is one of America's most-celebrated Merlots. Darioush makes a rich, deeply concentrated American merlot, which you can taste in its Persian-folly winery building and tasting room. Celebrated winemaker and consultant Stephane Derenoncourt is the brains behind the lush, vibrant Derenoncourt Merlot. Switchback Ridge, Pride, and Pahlmeyer all make vibrant, earthy merlots.

Other reds sing as well. Patland's Syrah is dense, complex, and rich. The Syrahs of Joseph Phelps Le Mistral and Spring Mountain are deep, inky wines with big fruit bouquets. Etude has been making delicious Burgundy-style Pinot Noir for years. Cherry Pie hails from the historic Stanley Ranch vineyard in Carneros. Nearby, Carneros Creek Winery offers fine pinots and a gorgeous sunset stroll.

Napa also boasts a range of worthy white wines to taste. Bordeaux-native Christophe Paubert creates a fresh, zesty Viognier at Stags' Leap winery. Trefethen, located at the southern end of the Napa Valley, makes a "Burgundy-style" Chardonnay, meaning uncluttered by butter, oak, or that cloying malolactic taste. St. Clement's Bale Lane is a distinctive Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of green apple and guava, aged partially in Hungarian oak. Hanna in Sonoma and Cakebread Cellars in Rutherford also make crisp, vibrant Sauvignon Blancs, cleaner and less grapefruity than their Kiwi peers. Schramsberg, in Calistoga, is the grande dame of American sparkling wine. Domaine Chandon in Carneros produces a range of bubblies.

SLEEP

From charming bed-and-breakfasts to grand Old West hotels, Napa and Sonoma present a wide range of sleep and spa options. Bardessono Hotel in Yountville combines poolside dining, a fresh, sumptuous breakfast, and spa treatment right in your room. Carneros Inn on the Sonoma Highway offers individual luxury cabins with indoor/outdoor showers and a glorious hilltop swimming pool and restaurant. Auberge du Soleil continues to win over romantics and foodies alike. The enchanting Kenwood Inn overlooks the vineyards in the heart of Sonoma. Solage Calistoga brings spa, fine dining, and a groovy pool together under one sky. There are also many fine bed and breakfasts as well as hotel options in downtown Napa and Healdsburg.

EAT

You can't get your dry cleaning done at French Laundry, but you may experience an unforgettable meal. Built in 1890 as a steam laundry, Thomas Keller's restaurant is the gold standard of California cuisine. You can get a dazzling nine-course tasting menu with produce grown on the property, but you may not get a reservation — so book well in advance. Napa and Sonoma are silly with tempting restaurants, mostly highlighting local produce and all with enviable wine lists. Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery in Yountville offer foie gras dog biscuits and good people food too. La Toque in Rutherford is a well-loved favorite, frequented by locals and visitors alike. Domaine Chandon's Etoile restaurant is a great spot to taste bubbles while you dine. The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone is located in St. Helena. Food Network's Michael Chiarello highlights local fare with an Italian twist at Bottega. And on a warm day in November nothing beats a sandwich between the vines.

VIEW

The area offers a range of worthy cultural excursions. See what's happening at the Napa Valley Opera House. The calendar spans jazz, kid-friendly clowns, movie nights, and traveling troupes. The DiRosa Preserve houses nearly 2,000 works of art by more than 800 artists on sprawling grounds surrounded by trees, hills, and vines.

WALK, HIKE, RUN, & BIKE

Too much food and wine? There are lots of gyms, as well as outdoor exercise options. Yountville is threaded with picturesque jogging paths. Or rent a bicycle and explore the Silverado Trail or Sonoma's scenic Valley of the Moon. Walk the historic property and capacious caves at the Beringer Estate or Schramsberg Vineyards.

FLOAT

Get above it all — the sky's the limit. Ride in a hot air balloon with Napa Valley Drifters or Above the West Ballooning.

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